Skip to content

3. Circular Open Source Fashion

Tsumura

Research & Ideation

Kosuke Tsumura is a Japanese fashion designer renowned for his innovative and experimental approach to clothing design. He is the creator of the brand Final Home, founded in 1992, which explores the relationship between fashion, functionality, and survival. His work is deeply influenced by social and environmental concerns.

Tsumura

Key Aspects of His Work:

  • Final Home:
  • The brand’s most iconic piece is a jacket with numerous pockets designed as a personal shelter for use in emergency or disaster situations. The pockets can be filled with newspapers, clothes, food, or other items, providing insulation and storage.

  • This design embodies his vision of fashion as a practical and adaptable tool for survival.

  • Purposeful Design:

  • Tsumura diverges from traditional fashion norms to focus on how design can address essential human needs, such as safety, shelter, and protection.

  • Sustainability and Minimalism:

  • Many of his creations use recycled or repurposed materials, emphasizing the importance of conscious and sustainable design.

  • Relationship Between Technology and the Body:

  • Tsumura experiments with how clothing can function as an extension of the human body, incorporating concepts of technology, utility, and emotional connectivity.

References & Inspiration

Cy Bo

This concept describes an innovative cytological packaging material that transcends traditional boundaries by offering versatility and sustainability. The material is sponge-like, providing high cushioning when layered, making it suitable for protecting fragile items like fruits, dishes, and more. Its water-resistant and heat-resistant properties allow for various applications beyond packaging, such as pen cases, baskets, coasters, or even lamp shades.

Key features include:

  • Reusability: It can be rearranged into different shapes multiple times, expanding its potential uses.
  • Sustainability: Designed to minimize plastic waste by encouraging reuse.
  • Versatility: Suitable for both practical and creative purposes, adapting to user needs with limitless possibilities.

Cy Bo

Tools

Process and Workflow

Tutorial: How to Design Modules in Illustrator and Prepare Them for a Laser Cutter

Step 1: Designing Modules in Adobe Illustrator

  1. Open Adobe Illustrator and create a new document:
  2. Canvas size: Set it according to the dimensions of the laser cutter's workspace (e.g., 600x400 mm or 12x24 inches).
  3. Units: Select millimeters or inches, as required.
  4. Color mode: Choose RGB (commonly required by laser cutters).

ilustrator

  1. Enable guides and grids:
  2. Go to View > Show Grid and View > Snap to Grid for precise design work.

ilustrator

Step 2: Create the Module

  1. Draw the basic shapes:
  2. Use tools like the rectangle (M), ellipse (L), or pen (P) to create the module pieces.
  3. Ensure all shapes are scaled and proportioned correctly.

module

  1. Add assembly slots:
  2. Use the rectangle or line tool to create slots on the edges of the pieces.
  3. Ensure the slot dimensions match the material thickness (e.g., 3 mm).

module

  1. Unify shapes and adjust edges:
  2. Use the Pathfinder tool (Window > Pathfinder) to combine or divide shapes as needed.

module

Preparing and Laser Cutting Molds (Vinyl Leather with Slot-Fit Assembly)

Measure the Thickness of the Vinyl Leather

  • Use a caliper to ensure the slots and tabs fit precisely.

Design the Slot-Fit Joints

  • Slot width: 0.1 mm smaller than the material thickness for a tight fit.

Example: For 2 mm vinyl leather, design the slot to be 1.9 mm wide.

Add Tolerance to the Design:

  • Tight fit: 0.05 - 0.1 mm smaller than the material thickness.
  • Loose fit: 0.1 - 0.2 mm larger than the material thickness.

Setting Up the Laser Cutter

Warning: Vinyl leather contains PVC, which releases toxic fumes when cut. Always use a machine with fume extraction or work in a well-ventilated area.

  • Cutting: 20 mm/s at 60% power (for 2 mm vinyl leather).
  • Scoring (for fold lines): 300 mm/s at 15% power.

Prepare the Material:

  1. Lay the vinyl leather flat on the cutting bed.
  2. Secure the edges with masking tape if the material curls.

module

Focus the Laser:

  • Adjust the focal distance to ensure clean and precise cuts.

Cutting the Mold

  1. Run a test cut: Check that the slots and tabs fit properly with the vinyl leather thickness.
  2. Send the design to the laser cutter: Monitor the process to prevent over-burning or misalignment.
  3. Inspect the cut pieces: Ensure that the slots and edges are clean and well-defined.

module

Step 3: Slot-Fit Assembly Techniques

Insert the Tabs into the Slots:

  • Manual fit: Slightly bend the tabs if needed to ease insertion.

module

Fabrication Files

module

module

module

**Pro Tips:**
  • Simplify the design: Use the fewest parts possible for faster assembly.
  • Adjust tolerances: Always perform fit tests before the final cut.
  • Prototype first: Test your design on cardboard or MDF of the same thickness before cutting the vinyl leather.

Tsumura

Assembly Videos

From Vimeo

# Final result

module

Tsumura