BioChromes¶
Research¶
The indigo plant, known as Indigofera tinctoria, is cultivated in Oaxaca, Mexico, where it is used to extract the blue dye called añil. This traditional dyeing process involves fermenting the leaves to produce a rich, vibrant blue color, which is highly valued in textile arts. Indigo dyeing has a long history in the region, contributing to the local culture and economy through artisanal crafts. The unique techniques and deep cultural significance of indigo dyeing continue to be celebrated in Oaxaca today.
References¶
References & Inspiration¶
Daria Fedorova is a multidisciplinary artist who creates unique works by cultivating microorganisms. She merges microbiological practices with artistic expression, utilizing various supplements to explore themes that can be described as grotesque, bizarre, romantic, ironic, hyperbolic, and extraordinary. Her innovative approach challenges conventional boundaries between art and science.
Daria Federova Mold Art¶
References¶
Process and Workflow¶
Materials List – BioChromes¶
Natural Dye Materials¶
Plants and Organic Materials¶
- Indigo (Indigofera tinctoria) – For blue indigo dye
- Turmeric – For yellow dye
- Avocado (pits and skins) – For brown/pink dye
- Hibiscus (dried Flor de Jamaica) – For red/purple dye
- Muicle – For varied tones (used for absorption comparison)
Chemical Mordants¶
Primary Mordants¶
- Alum (Aluminum Sulfate) – Universal mordant
- Ferrous Sulfate (Iron) – For darker tones
- Tannic Acid – Natural mordant
pH Modifiers¶
- Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) – Raises pH (alkaline)
- Hydrochloric Acid (HCl) – Lowers pH (acidic)
- Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) – For bluish/purple tones
Textile Materials¶
Natural Fibers¶
- Wool – Animal fiber (sheep)
- Cotton – Plant-based fiber
- Manta – Basic cotton cloth
Equipment and Tools¶
Cooking Equipment¶
- Heat-resistant containers
- Heat source (stove, burner)
- Thermometer (optional)
Filtering Tools¶
- Strainers or fabric filters
- Muslin cloth for filtering
- Wooden spoons for stirring
Measuring Tools¶
- Scale for weighing materials
- Measuring cups
- Measuring spoons
Storage Containers¶
- Airtight jars
- Glass containers
- Labels for identification
Materials for Hibiscus Ink¶
Essential Ingredients¶
- Dried hibiscus flowers – 1 cup
- Water – 1 cup
- White vinegar – 1–2 tablespoons
- Salt – ¼ teaspoon
Optional Ingredients¶
- Gum arabic – To improve consistency
- Baking soda – For color variations
Specific Equipment¶
- Mortar or blender (optional)
- Heat-resistant container
- Fine strainer or filter cloth
- Storage jar with lid
Safety Materials¶
Personal Protective Equipment¶
- Protective gloves (nitrile or latex)
- Apron or protective clothing
- Safety goggles (for chemical use)
- Mask (for mordant powders)
Ventilation Equipment¶
- Well-ventilated area or fume hood
- Fan (if needed)
Recommended Quantities Per Project¶
Avocado Dye¶
- 100g of material (pits/skins) per 500ml of water
- Mordant: 10–20% of fabric weight
Turmeric Dye¶
- 2–3 tablespoons of turmeric powder per 1 liter of water
- Mordant: 15% of fabric weight
Hibiscus Dye¶
- 1 cup of dried flowers per 1 cup of water
- Vinegar: 1–2 tablespoons per cup of liquid
Documentation Materials¶
For Experiment Tracking¶
- Lab notebook or journal
- Camera for result documentation
- Fabric samples for comparison
- Labels with date and process
For pH Analysis¶
- Litmus paper or pH strips
- Digital pH meter (optional)
Storage Considerations¶
Storage Conditions¶
- Cool, dry place for dry materials
- Refrigeration for prepared liquid dyes
- Airtight containers to prevent contamination
- Clear labeling with preparation date
Shelf Life¶
- Dry materials: 1–2 years if stored properly
- Liquid dyes: 1–2 months refrigerated
- Prepared inks: 1–2 months with preservatives
Cleaning Materials¶
For Equipment Cleaning¶
- Mild detergent for washing containers
- Distilled water for final rinse
- Paper towels or clean cloths
For Spill Cleanup¶
- Absorbent materials (sand, sawdust)
- Neutralizing solution for acids/bases
- Appropriate waste disposal bags
Estimated Costs¶
Basic Materials (Estimates)¶
- Chemical mordants: $15–25 USD per basic kit
- Natural materials: $5–10 USD per experiment
- Basic equipment: $20–40 USD (reusable)
- Safety gear: $10–20 USD
Total Initial Investment¶
- Approx. $50–95 USD for co
How to Use Mordants to Fix Dyes to Fabrics¶
Mordants are essential chemical agents that help dyes adhere to fabric fibers, ensuring color permanence and vibrancy.
1. Alum Application¶
- Dissolve in hot water
- Soak the damp fabric in the solution
- Let it sit for adequate time to ensure the mordant adheres
- Rinse before dyeing
2. Iron (Ferrous Sulfate) Application¶
- Prepare a solution and soak the fabric
- Repeat the process to achieve the desired color intensity
- Rinse well afterward
3. Tannic Acid Application¶
- Apply directly or dilute in water
- Soak the fabric and allow it to dry before dyeing
Important Note: Each mordant will influence the final color tone significantly.
Ingredients & Recipes¶
Brown Dye with Avocado¶
Materials Needed:¶
- 1-2 avocado pits or skins from several avocados
- 100 grams per 500 ml of water ratio
Process:¶
- Collect Materials: Use avocado pits and skins
- Prepare the Dye: Boil the pits and skins in water for 30-60 minutes until the water turns pinkish
- Strain the Dye: Remove solid parts to get a clear dye solution
- Prepare the Fabric: Pre-soak fabric in a mordant solution (like alum)
- Dye the Fabric: Soak fabric in dye bath for 30 minutes to 1 hour, stirring occasionally
- Rinse and Dry: Rinse fabric in cool water and let it dry
Yellow Dye with Turmeric¶
Documenting Experiments¶
pH Effects on Natural Dyes¶
When sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or hydrochloric acid (HCl) is applied to pH-neutral dyed fabrics, it can significantly affect the color:
Sodium Hydroxide Effects:¶
- Increases pH levels
- Results in color change to reddish-brown for dyes like turmeric
- Alters the dye's molecular structure
Hydrochloric Acid Effects:¶
- Decreases pH levels
- Can intensify yellow color of turmeric
- Stabilizes the dye structure
Important: Both substances can shift color properties of natural dyes, leading to different shades based on pH changes.
Hibiscus Experiment¶
When sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or hydrochloric acid (HCl) is applied to an acidic hibiscus dye solution:
Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH):¶
- Raises pH levels
- Shifts color from natural pinkish-red (acidic) to greenish or bluish tone (alkaline)
- Hibiscus is pH-sensitive, producing significant color shifts in alkaline environments
Hydrochloric Acid (HCl):¶
- Lowers pH further
- Intensifies reddish tones
- Increased acidity deepens red color, enhancing hibiscus's natural hue
Fabric Testing Results¶
Material Comparison Table¶
| Material | Composition | Breathability | Moisture-Wicking | Heat Retention | Stretchability | Washing Temp |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wool | Animal fibers - sheep | Highly breathable | High | Excellent | Moderate | Cool or warm |
| Cotton | Plant fibers - cotton plant | Highly breathable | Moderate | Low | Low | Warm |
Dye Absorption Results¶
Key Finding: Both wool and cotton can be dyed with muicle, but wool retains the color more effectively, resulting in a darker hue.
Final Results - Natural Dye Color Palette¶
How to Make Homemade Hibiscus Ink¶
Making homemade ink using hibiscus flowers (dried flor de jamaica) is a simple and natural process that produces a reddish or purplish hue, depending on the materials and methods used.
Materials Needed¶
Essential Ingredients:¶
- Dried hibiscus flowers (flor de jamaica): About 1 cup
- Water: 1 cup
- White vinegar: 1-2 tablespoons (to fix color and prevent fading)
- Salt: 1/4 teaspoon (as preservative)
Equipment:¶
- Heat-resistant container
- Strainer or cloth filter
- Jar or container with lid for storage
Optional Ingredients:¶
- Gum arabic: To improve consistency and adhesion
- Mortar or blender: To release more pigment from flowers
Step-by-Step Process¶
Step 1: Extract the Color¶
- Place dried hibiscus flowers in heat-resistant container
- Add water to the container and heat over medium heat
- Let it simmer gently for 10-15 minutes
- This extracts pigment from flowers, creating dark and concentrated liquid
Step 2: Strain the Mixture¶
- Remove container from heat and let it cool slightly
- Use strainer or cloth filter to separate flowers from liquid
- Press flowers with spoon to extract maximum pigment
Step 3: Fix the Color¶
- Add 1-2 tablespoons white vinegar to stabilize color
- Add 1/4 teaspoon salt as preservative to prevent mold
Step 4: Improve Consistency (Optional)¶
- For thicker ink, mix small amount of gum arabic (about 1/4 teaspoon)
- Stir into warm liquid until completely dissolved
Step 5: Store the Ink¶
- Transfer ink to clean jar with tight lid
- Store in cool, dark place to prolong shelf life
Uses and Applications¶
Artistic Applications:¶
- Drawing and writing: Use with brush, fountain pen, or dip pen
- Art projects: Perfect for watercolor effects or detailing in art pieces
- Calligraphy: Excellent for decorative writing projects
Tips and Variations¶
Color Intensity Adjustments:¶
- For darker color: Reduce liquid by boiling longer or use more hibiscus flowers initially
- For lighter tones: Dilute with additional water
Tone Variations:¶
- Bluish/purplish tones: Add pinch of baking soda
- Deeper reds: Increase acidity with additional vinegar
Storage and Shelf Life:¶
- Preservation: Vinegar and salt help preserve ink
- Usage timeframe: Best used within 1-2 months
- Quality check: Discard if unusual smell or texture changes occur
Safety Considerations¶
Important Safety Notes: - Always work in well-ventilated areas when using mordants - Wear protective gloves when handling chemical mordants - Keep mordants away from children and pets - Label all containers clearly with contents and date - Dispose of chemical solutions responsibly according to local regulations
Conclusion¶
Natural dyeing with BioChromes offers sustainable alternatives to synthetic dyes while connecting us to traditional textile practices. The experiments documented here demonstrate the rich color possibilities achievable through natural materials, from the deep blues of indigo to the vibrant reds of hibiscus ink.
The combination of traditional knowledge and scientific understanding of pH effects, mordant chemistry, and fiber properties opens new possibilities for contemporary textile artists and sustainable fashion practitioners.