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BioChromes

week04


Research

indigoblue

Indigo plant cultivation in Oaxaca, Mexico

The indigo plant, known as Indigofera tinctoria, is cultivated in Oaxaca, Mexico, where it is used to extract the blue dye called añil. This traditional dyeing process involves fermenting the leaves to produce a rich, vibrant blue color, which is highly valued in textile arts. Indigo dyeing has a long history in the region, contributing to the local culture and economy through artisanal crafts. The unique techniques and deep cultural significance of indigo dyeing continue to be celebrated in Oaxaca today.

References


References & Inspiration

Daria Fedorova is a multidisciplinary artist who creates unique works by cultivating microorganisms. She merges microbiological practices with artistic expression, utilizing various supplements to explore themes that can be described as grotesque, bizarre, romantic, ironic, hyperbolic, and extraordinary. Her innovative approach challenges conventional boundaries between art and science.

Daria Federova Mold Art

Daria Federova Daria Federova

Daria Federova's microorganism art pieces

Daria Federova

Daria Federova/Behance

References


Process and Workflow

Materials List – BioChromes

Natural Dye Materials

Plants and Organic Materials

  • Indigo (Indigofera tinctoria) – For blue indigo dye
  • Turmeric – For yellow dye
  • Avocado (pits and skins) – For brown/pink dye
  • Hibiscus (dried Flor de Jamaica) – For red/purple dye
  • Muicle – For varied tones (used for absorption comparison)

Chemical Mordants

Primary Mordants

  • Alum (Aluminum Sulfate) – Universal mordant
  • Ferrous Sulfate (Iron) – For darker tones
  • Tannic Acid – Natural mordant

pH Modifiers

  • Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) – Raises pH (alkaline)
  • Hydrochloric Acid (HCl) – Lowers pH (acidic)
  • Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) – For bluish/purple tones

Textile Materials

Natural Fibers

  • Wool – Animal fiber (sheep)
  • Cotton – Plant-based fiber
  • Manta – Basic cotton cloth

Equipment and Tools

Cooking Equipment

  • Heat-resistant containers
  • Heat source (stove, burner)
  • Thermometer (optional)

Filtering Tools

  • Strainers or fabric filters
  • Muslin cloth for filtering
  • Wooden spoons for stirring

Measuring Tools

  • Scale for weighing materials
  • Measuring cups
  • Measuring spoons

Storage Containers

  • Airtight jars
  • Glass containers
  • Labels for identification

Materials for Hibiscus Ink

Essential Ingredients

  • Dried hibiscus flowers – 1 cup
  • Water – 1 cup
  • White vinegar – 1–2 tablespoons
  • Salt – ¼ teaspoon

Optional Ingredients

  • Gum arabic – To improve consistency
  • Baking soda – For color variations

Specific Equipment

  • Mortar or blender (optional)
  • Heat-resistant container
  • Fine strainer or filter cloth
  • Storage jar with lid

Safety Materials

Personal Protective Equipment

  • Protective gloves (nitrile or latex)
  • Apron or protective clothing
  • Safety goggles (for chemical use)
  • Mask (for mordant powders)

Ventilation Equipment

  • Well-ventilated area or fume hood
  • Fan (if needed)

Avocado Dye

  • 100g of material (pits/skins) per 500ml of water
  • Mordant: 10–20% of fabric weight

Turmeric Dye

  • 2–3 tablespoons of turmeric powder per 1 liter of water
  • Mordant: 15% of fabric weight

Hibiscus Dye

  • 1 cup of dried flowers per 1 cup of water
  • Vinegar: 1–2 tablespoons per cup of liquid

Documentation Materials

For Experiment Tracking

  • Lab notebook or journal
  • Camera for result documentation
  • Fabric samples for comparison
  • Labels with date and process

For pH Analysis

  • Litmus paper or pH strips
  • Digital pH meter (optional)

Storage Considerations

Storage Conditions

  • Cool, dry place for dry materials
  • Refrigeration for prepared liquid dyes
  • Airtight containers to prevent contamination
  • Clear labeling with preparation date

Shelf Life

  • Dry materials: 1–2 years if stored properly
  • Liquid dyes: 1–2 months refrigerated
  • Prepared inks: 1–2 months with preservatives

Cleaning Materials

For Equipment Cleaning

  • Mild detergent for washing containers
  • Distilled water for final rinse
  • Paper towels or clean cloths

For Spill Cleanup

  • Absorbent materials (sand, sawdust)
  • Neutralizing solution for acids/bases
  • Appropriate waste disposal bags

Estimated Costs

Basic Materials (Estimates)

  • Chemical mordants: $15–25 USD per basic kit
  • Natural materials: $5–10 USD per experiment
  • Basic equipment: $20–40 USD (reusable)
  • Safety gear: $10–20 USD

Total Initial Investment

  • Approx. $50–95 USD for co

mordant

Mordant application process diagram

How to Use Mordants to Fix Dyes to Fabrics

Mordants are essential chemical agents that help dyes adhere to fabric fibers, ensuring color permanence and vibrancy.

1. Alum Application

  • Dissolve in hot water
  • Soak the damp fabric in the solution
  • Let it sit for adequate time to ensure the mordant adheres
  • Rinse before dyeing

2. Iron (Ferrous Sulfate) Application

  • Prepare a solution and soak the fabric
  • Repeat the process to achieve the desired color intensity
  • Rinse well afterward

3. Tannic Acid Application

  • Apply directly or dilute in water
  • Soak the fabric and allow it to dry before dyeing

Important Note: Each mordant will influence the final color tone significantly.


Ingredients & Recipes

mordant

Natural dye color spectrum

Brown Dye with Avocado

mordant

Avocado pit and skin dye preparation

Materials Needed:

  • 1-2 avocado pits or skins from several avocados
  • 100 grams per 500 ml of water ratio

Process:

  1. Collect Materials: Use avocado pits and skins
  2. Prepare the Dye: Boil the pits and skins in water for 30-60 minutes until the water turns pinkish
  3. Strain the Dye: Remove solid parts to get a clear dye solution
  4. Prepare the Fabric: Pre-soak fabric in a mordant solution (like alum)
  5. Dye the Fabric: Soak fabric in dye bath for 30 minutes to 1 hour, stirring occasionally
  6. Rinse and Dry: Rinse fabric in cool water and let it dry

Yellow Dye with Turmeric

mordant mordant mordant mordant mordant mordant mordant

Turmeric dyeing process step-by-step


Documenting Experiments

pH Effects on Natural Dyes

When sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or hydrochloric acid (HCl) is applied to pH-neutral dyed fabrics, it can significantly affect the color:

Sodium Hydroxide Effects:

  • Increases pH levels
  • Results in color change to reddish-brown for dyes like turmeric
  • Alters the dye's molecular structure

Hydrochloric Acid Effects:

  • Decreases pH levels
  • Can intensify yellow color of turmeric
  • Stabilizes the dye structure

Important: Both substances can shift color properties of natural dyes, leading to different shades based on pH changes.


Hibiscus Experiment

hibiscus experiment

Hibiscus pH color change experiment

When sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or hydrochloric acid (HCl) is applied to an acidic hibiscus dye solution:

Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH):

  • Raises pH levels
  • Shifts color from natural pinkish-red (acidic) to greenish or bluish tone (alkaline)
  • Hibiscus is pH-sensitive, producing significant color shifts in alkaline environments

Hydrochloric Acid (HCl):

  • Lowers pH further
  • Intensifies reddish tones
  • Increased acidity deepens red color, enhancing hibiscus's natural hue

Fabric Testing Results

Material Comparison Table

Material Composition Breathability Moisture-Wicking Heat Retention Stretchability Washing Temp
Wool Animal fibers - sheep Highly breathable High Excellent Moderate Cool or warm
Cotton Plant fibers - cotton plant Highly breathable Moderate Low Low Warm

Dye Absorption Results

wool cotton

Wool vs Cotton dye absorption comparison using muicle

Key Finding: Both wool and cotton can be dyed with muicle, but wool retains the color more effectively, resulting in a darker hue.


Final Results - Natural Dye Color Palette

paleta de colores

Complete natural dye color palette achieved


How to Make Homemade Hibiscus Ink

Making homemade ink using hibiscus flowers (dried flor de jamaica) is a simple and natural process that produces a reddish or purplish hue, depending on the materials and methods used.

Materials Needed

Essential Ingredients:

  • Dried hibiscus flowers (flor de jamaica): About 1 cup
  • Water: 1 cup
  • White vinegar: 1-2 tablespoons (to fix color and prevent fading)
  • Salt: 1/4 teaspoon (as preservative)

Equipment:

  • Heat-resistant container
  • Strainer or cloth filter
  • Jar or container with lid for storage

Optional Ingredients:

  • Gum arabic: To improve consistency and adhesion
  • Mortar or blender: To release more pigment from flowers

Step-by-Step Process

paleta de colores

Hibiscus ink preparation materials

Step 1: Extract the Color

  • Place dried hibiscus flowers in heat-resistant container
  • Add water to the container and heat over medium heat
  • Let it simmer gently for 10-15 minutes
  • This extracts pigment from flowers, creating dark and concentrated liquid

Step 2: Strain the Mixture

  • Remove container from heat and let it cool slightly
  • Use strainer or cloth filter to separate flowers from liquid
  • Press flowers with spoon to extract maximum pigment

Step 3: Fix the Color

  • Add 1-2 tablespoons white vinegar to stabilize color
  • Add 1/4 teaspoon salt as preservative to prevent mold

Step 4: Improve Consistency (Optional)

  • For thicker ink, mix small amount of gum arabic (about 1/4 teaspoon)
  • Stir into warm liquid until completely dissolved

Step 5: Store the Ink

  • Transfer ink to clean jar with tight lid
  • Store in cool, dark place to prolong shelf life

paleta de colores

Final hibiscus ink ready for use


Uses and Applications

Artistic Applications:

  • Drawing and writing: Use with brush, fountain pen, or dip pen
  • Art projects: Perfect for watercolor effects or detailing in art pieces
  • Calligraphy: Excellent for decorative writing projects

Tips and Variations

Color Intensity Adjustments:

  • For darker color: Reduce liquid by boiling longer or use more hibiscus flowers initially
  • For lighter tones: Dilute with additional water

Tone Variations:

  • Bluish/purplish tones: Add pinch of baking soda
  • Deeper reds: Increase acidity with additional vinegar

Storage and Shelf Life:

  • Preservation: Vinegar and salt help preserve ink
  • Usage timeframe: Best used within 1-2 months
  • Quality check: Discard if unusual smell or texture changes occur

Safety Considerations

Important Safety Notes: - Always work in well-ventilated areas when using mordants - Wear protective gloves when handling chemical mordants - Keep mordants away from children and pets - Label all containers clearly with contents and date - Dispose of chemical solutions responsibly according to local regulations


Conclusion

Natural dyeing with BioChromes offers sustainable alternatives to synthetic dyes while connecting us to traditional textile practices. The experiments documented here demonstrate the rich color possibilities achievable through natural materials, from the deep blues of indigo to the vibrant reds of hibiscus ink.

The combination of traditional knowledge and scientific understanding of pH effects, mordant chemistry, and fiber properties opens new possibilities for contemporary textile artists and sustainable fashion practitioners.