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6. Computational Couture

week06

Different samples of 3D print / Caress of Gaze

gaze

Research & Ideation

Behnaz Farahi’s work blends architecture, interaction design, and fashion, as demonstrated in her 3D-printed garment Caress of the Gaze. This innovative piece is designed to respond to the wearer’s environment through a fascinating interactive feature. The garment incorporates sensors that detect when someone is staring at the wearer. Upon detecting this gaze, the garment reacts by moving in response, creating an interactive, dynamic experience. The piece explores themes of privacy, attention, and personal space, reflecting Farahi’s interest in how technology can engage with the human body and social interactions. By using 3D printing, Farahi is able to create complex, responsive designs that push the boundaries of both fashion and interaction design, offering a new way to think about garments as more than just static objects but as responsive, living parts of a person's experience.

Behnaz Farahi / Caress of Gaze

gaze

References & Inspiration

Ganit Goldstein’s work focuses on creating personalized and sustainable garments by combining 3D printing and embroidery. Her process involves using a 360-degree body scanner to obtain an accurate representation of the body, allowing the garments to be fully custom-made. She utilizes multicolor 3D printing to produce intricate and detailed pieces, merging advanced technologies with traditional techniques like embroidery. Her collection "WeAreAble" is an innovative proposal that challenges fast fashion by focusing on creating zero-waste clothing using recycled materials, promoting sustainability in the fashion industry. Additionally, her work is influenced by traditional weaving techniques, such as ikat, integrating them into her futuristic designs.

Golstein/WeAreAble

Golsstein

Anouk Wipprecht’s work integrates technology and fashion in a groundbreaking way, as demonstrated in her 3D-printed fashion collection for Audi. The collection features garments embedded with advanced technological elements, such as parking sensors and headlights. These sensors allow the garments to respond to the wearer's environment, providing interactive and functional designs. For example, the pieces can light up or react when the wearer is near an object or person, mimicking the way cars' parking sensors and headlights function. This innovative fusion of fashion and technology explores the future of wearable tech, highlighting how 3D printing can be used to create not only visually striking but also interactive and functional fashion pieces. The collection emphasizes the potential for technology to enhance personal expression and provide new functionalities within the realm of design.

Wipprecht/Synapse Dress

Wipprecht

Wipprecht/Spider

Wipprecht


Tools

Process and workflow

Creating a Voronoi Model in Rhino

This guide explains how to create a Voronoi pattern in Rhino, focusing on workflows commonly used in FabLabs for 3D printing.

1. What is a Voronoi Pattern?

A Voronoi diagram divides a surface into cells based on the distance to a set of points.
Each cell contains the area closest to one point compared to all others.

In digital fabrication, Voronoi patterns are commonly used for: - Lightweight structures - Decorative and functional panels - Material optimization - Bio-inspired design

2. Quick Rhino Commands Summary (Voronoi Workflow)

Rectangle
Grasshopper
Populate2D
Voronoi
Trim
Join
Explode
Offset

Wipprecht

Ultimaker Cura Guide for FabLab Use

Quality, Wall Thickness, and Infill Testing Workflow

1. Initial Setup in Ultimaker Cura

  1. Open Ultimaker Cura.
  2. Select the correct printer profile.
  3. Load the material to be used (PLA recommended for testing).
  4. Import a test model:
  5. Calibration cube
  6. Or a small part with flat surfaces and walls

Wipprecht

2. Test 1: Print Quality (Layer Height)

Objective

Evaluate surface finish, detail level, and print time.

Parameter

  • Quality → Layer Height

Tests

  • Layer Height = 0.2 mm
  • Good surface detail

  • Longer print time

  • Layer Height = 0.4 mm

  • Faster printing
  • Visible layers
  • Suitable for functional prototypes

Evaluation Criteria

  • Surface smoothness
  • Edge definition
  • Printing time

Decision:
➡ Layer Height = 0.4 mm selected for speed and functional adequacy.

Wipprecht

3. Test 2: Wall Thickness

Objective

Assess structural strength and edge quality.

Parameter

  • Walls → Wall Thickness

Tests

  • Wall Thickness = 0.2 mm
  • Very thin walls

  • Low structural resistance

  • Wall Thickness = 0.4 mm

  • Improved rigidity
  • Better wall consistency

Evaluation Criteria

  • Flexibility
  • Wall integrity
  • Layer bonding

4. Test 3: Infill Density

Objective

Balance weight, strength, and material usage.

Parameter

  • Infill → Infill Density

Tests

  • Infill = 3%
  • Very lightweight
  • Minimal structural support

Wipprecht

  • Infill = 5%
  • Better internal support
  • Still material-efficient

Wipprecht

Evaluation Criteria

  • Structural rigidity
  • Weight
  • Material consumption

5. Final Selected Parameters

After testing and comparison, the following parameters are chosen:

Final Print Settings

  • Layer Height (Quality): 0.4 mm
  • Wall Thickness: 0.5 mm
  • Infill Density: 5%

Rationale

  • Faster production for FabLab workflows
  • Sufficient strength for functional testing
  • Reduced material consumption
  • Ideal for large or iterative prototypes Wipprecht

1. General Printer Inspection (Before Printing)

Objective

Ensure the printer is in proper working condition before calibration or printing.

1.1 Frame and Mechanics

  • Make sure the printer is:
  • Placed on a flat and stable surface
  • Free of loose screws
  • Check:
  • Belts are properly tensioned (not loose, not overtightened)
  • Rods or linear rails are clean
  • X, Y, and Z axes move smoothly

1.2 Hotend and Nozzle

  • Verify that:
  • The nozzle is clean
  • No burnt filament residue is present
  • If needed:
  • Perform a cold pull
  • Clean with a nozzle needle

1.3 Extruder and Filament

  • Check that:
  • Filament feeds smoothly
  • Filament is not brittle or wet
  • Ensure:
  • Extruder gear is clean
  • Filament is not slipping

1.4 Print Bed

  • Clean the surface using:
  • Isopropyl alcohol (recommended for PLA)
  • Avoid touching the bed after cleaning
  • Verify that:
  • Glass or build plate is securely fixed
  • The bed is not warped

2. Preheating (Critical Step)

Before calibration, heat the printer to operating temperature:

  • Nozzle: 200 °C (PLA)
  • Bed: 75 °C Wipprecht

3. Homing the Axes

  1. From the printer menu:
  2. Select Auto Home
  3. Confirm:
  4. The nozzle moves to the center
  5. The nozzle does not scrape the bed

4. Manual Bed Leveling (Paper Method)

Wipprecht

Required Material

  • Standard printer paper (80 g/m²)

4.1 Front-Left Corner

  1. Move the nozzle to the corner.
  2. Place the paper between the nozzle and the bed.
  3. Adjust the leveling knob until:
  4. The paper slides with slight resistance
  5. It is not loose or fully stuck

4.2 Front-Right Corner

  • Repeat the same process.

4.3 Rear-Right Corner

  • Repeat the adjustment.

4.4 Rear-Left Corner

  • Repeat the adjustment.

4.5 Center of the Bed

  • Check the center height:
  • If it is too high or too low, repeat the entire process
  • Usually requires 2–3 full leveling cycles

5. Insert the Memory Card into the Printer

With the printer idle (on or off):

  • Insert the SD or microSD card into the printer slot.

Ensure that: - The card is fully inserted - It is not loose

Wipprecht

6. Select the File on the Printer

On the printer’s screen:

  1. Go to Print / Print from SD / Media
  2. Browse the list of files
  3. Select your .gcode file Wipprecht

7. Start the Print

Wipprecht

8. Common Issues and Solutions

Issue Possible Cause Solution
Poor adhesion Nozzle too high Lower Z
Bed scratching Nozzle too low Raise Z
Uneven lines Bed not level Re-level bed
Rough first layer Excess pressure Adjust Z-offset

Fabrication files

  1. File: 3d VORONOI ↩