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10. Textile Scaffold

Research

week10

Carole Collet is a French-British designer and pioneer in biodesign and sustainability. She is a professor at Central Saint Martins, where she leads Maison/0 with LVMH and co-directs the Design & Living Systems Lab. Collet founded the Master’s in Biodesign and the Material Futures program. Her research merges biology and design to create regenerative materials. Her notable project Biolace imagines plants producing both food and textiles. She promotes a design approach that collaborates with nature for a sustainable future.

Maria Blaisse is a Dutch artist and designer born in 1944, known for her interdisciplinary work combining textile design, sculpture, and performance. She studied at the Gerrit Rietveld Academie and explored flexible materials and geometric forms, such as the toroid. Her work, characterized by the interplay between form, movement, and material, has been exhibited internationally and received several awards. She published The Emergence of Form, a retrospective of her career.

https://mariablaisse.com/work/

http://www.carolecollet.com/

References & Inspiration

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  • Image reference

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Overview material research outcomes

Tools

Process and workflow

Tutorial: Living Surfaces Inspired by Hylozoic Ground (Philip Beesley) Using Laser Cut and Borax Crystallization

Concept

This project explores the relationship between the artificial and the organic, inspired by the work of architect and artist Philip Beesley, particularly his installation Hylozoic Ground. Through a series of biomorphic patterns designed in Illustrator, the goal is to create surfaces that appear sensitive, alive, or reactive. These pieces were laser-cut from white synthetic leather (cuerina) and later treated with borax crystallization, seeking an aesthetic that evokes natural or mineral growth on artificial structures.

Materials

  • Adobe Illustrator software
  • White synthetic leather (thin or medium thickness works best)
  • Laser cutter
  • Borax powder (30 g per 250 ml of water)
  • Heat-resistant glass container
  • Hot water (80–90 °C / 176–194 °F)
  • String, clips, or suspension frame
  • Safety gloves and goggles
  • Paper towel or tray for drying

Step 1: Design in Illustrator

  1. Open Illustrator and create a document in A4 size or matching your laser bed dimensions.
  2. Design cellular or branching patterns, inspired by Philip Beesley’s flexible architectural modules.
  3. Use tools like:
  4. Blend Tool for organic gradients
  5. Rotate + Copy for radial patterns
  6. Pathfinder > Minus Front to create porous structures
  7. Make sure all paths are closed and convert strokes to outlines: Object > Path > Outline Stroke.
  8. Save your file as .SVG or .AI, depending on your laser cutter software.

Step 2: Laser Cut the White Synthetic Leather

  1. Place the synthetic leather on the laser bed and secure it firmly.
  2. Set your laser cutter parameters:
  3. Speed: medium
  4. Power: low to medium (depends on material thickness)
  5. Frequency: standard for synthetic materials
  6. Perform a test cut before launching the full design.
  7. Cut the pieces and carefully remove them using tweezers.

Step 3: Prepare the Borax Solution

  1. Heat 250 ml of water until nearly boiling (80–90 °C).
  2. Pour the hot water into the glass container.
  3. Add 30 g of borax, stirring until the solution becomes saturated (no more borax dissolves).

Step 4: Suspend the Cut Pieces

  1. Using string or clips, submerge the laser-cut synthetic leather pieces into the solution.
  2. Ensure the pieces do not touch the walls or bottom of the container.
  3. Let them sit undisturbed for 12 to 24 hours.

Step 5: Drying and Results

  1. Carefully remove the crystallized pieces from the solution.
  2. Place them on a paper towel or drying tray.
  3. Let them air dry for several hours.

Result: The white synthetic leather surfaces are covered with translucent white borax crystals, enhancing their biomimetic and sculptural appearance.

Reflection

This experiment is a material exploration between the synthetic and the organic, the living and the inert. Just as Hylozoic Ground suggests a responsive architecture that interacts with its environment, these pieces evoke growth and transformation emerging from an artificial base.

Safety Notes

  • Borax is not edible; always handle with gloves.
  • Use laser cutters in a well-ventilated area.
  • Avoid inhaling borax powder or vapors.

Happy experimenting! 🌌 Would you like this as a downloadable visual sheet or zine format for exhibitions or portfolios?

Ingredients & Recipes

How to Grow Borax Crystals

Materials Needed

  • 30 g borax powder (decahydrate, formula: Na₂B₄O₇·10H₂O)
  • 250 ml hot water (approx. 80–90 °C / 176–194 °F)
  • Glass container (jar or heat-resistant cup)
  • Cotton string (or a pipe cleaner if you'd like to create a shape)
  • Wooden stick or pencil (to suspend the string)
  • Spoon for stirring
  • Paper towel (for drying)
  • Optional but recommended: gloves and safety goggles

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Prepare Your Crystal Structure

  • If using string: cut about 15–20 cm (6–8 in) and tie one end to a wooden stick or pencil.
  • If using a pipe cleaner: bend it into a fun shape (star, spiral, etc.), then tie it with the string.
  • Hang the string so the object does not touch the bottom or sides of the container.

2. Make a Saturated Borax Solution

  • Heat 250 ml of water until nearly boiling.
  • Pour the hot water into the glass container.
  • Gradually add 30 g of borax, stirring until no more dissolves.
  • A little undissolved powder at the bottom is okay — it means the solution is saturated.

3. Suspend the String or Shape

  • Place the wooden stick or pencil across the top of the container.
  • Make sure the object hangs freely and is fully submerged.

4. Let It Sit and Crystallize

  • Place the container in a quiet, undisturbed place.
  • Leave it for 12 to 24 hours.
  • Watch as beautiful white borax crystals form on the string or shape.

5. Remove and Dry

  • Carefully remove the crystal-covered shape.
  • Let it dry on a paper towel or clean cloth.
  • After a few hours, it will be ready for display.

What's Happening?

Borax dissolves better in hot water. As the solution cools, the excess borax can't stay dissolved and begins to crystallize, forming solid structures on the surface of the string or pipe cleaner.

Safety Tips

  • Do not ingest borax.
  • Avoid skin and eye contact.
  • Wash hands thoroughly after handling.
  • Use gloves and goggles if working with children or in a classroom.

Happy crystal growing! 🌟

Tutorial: How to Use an Asia Robótica CNC Router (Step by Step)

This tutorial will guide you through the safe and efficient use of an Asia Robótica CNC router, from material preparation to final cutting. It focuses on avoiding common mistakes through proper measurement, secure material fixation, and thorough verification before running any job.

Required Materials and Tools

  • Asia Robótica CNC Router
  • Computer with CNC control software (e.g., Mach3, UCCNC, etc.)
  • Vector file (.dxf, .ai, .svg, .nc)
  • Wood or cutting material (MDF, plywood, pine, etc.)
  • Measuring tape or ruler
  • Pencil or marker
  • Clamps or screws
  • Appropriate milling bit
  • Vacuum or air compressor for cleanup

Step 1: Measure and Mark the Wood

  1. Use a measuring tape to verify the size of your material.
  2. Make sure your design fits within the working area of the machine.
  3. Mark the origin point (home) of the design with a pencil (usually the lower-left corner).

Step 2: Secure the Material to the Cutting Bed

  1. Align the wood with the X/Y axes of the machine.
  2. Use clamps or screws to fasten it firmly to the bed.
  3. Make sure clamps are not in the path of the milling bit.
  4. A well-fixed material prevents shifting and cutting errors.
  5. For thin materials, consider using double-sided tape or a sacrificial board underneath.

Step 3: Load the Cutting File

  1. Open your CNC control software.
  2. Import your G-code file (.nc or .tap).
  3. Check the dimensions and simulate the cutting path to ensure accuracy.

Step 4: Insert the Bit and Set Z Axis

  1. Choose an appropriate milling bit (e.g., straight cut, 1/8" or 1/4" flat end).
  2. Secure the bit into the spindle.
  3. Lower the Z-axis slowly until the bit touches the material surface.
  4. Zero the Z-axis in your software (Z = 0.000).

Step 5: Set X and Y Axes

  1. Manually move the spindle to the origin point marked earlier.
  2. Once aligned, zero the X and Y axes in your software.

Step 6: Simulate and Double-Check

  1. Review the toolpath to ensure it avoids any clamps or screws.
  2. Confirm that the material is securely fixed.
  3. Check the bit height and maximum depth of cut.

Step 7: Start the Cut

  1. Run the job from your CNC software.
  2. Closely monitor the first few seconds to ensure proper movement.
  3. Do not leave the machine unattended during operation.
  4. If anything unusual happens, press the emergency stop button immediately.

Step 8: Cleanup and Shutdown

  1. Wait until the bit has completely stopped.
  2. Carefully remove the cut material.
  3. Clean the work surface using a vacuum or compressed air.
  4. Store your bits properly and shut down the machine.

Additional Tips

  • Always wear hearing and eye protection.
  • Never leave tools on the cutting bed.
  • If unsure about your file or parameters, ask a technician or run a test on cardboard or foam.
  • Document your settings for future use.

Documenting and comparing experiments

Comparison: CNC-Milled Mold vs. Borax Crystal Mold

Characteristic CNC-Milled Mold (Wood) Borax Crystal Mold
Base Material Wood (pine, MDF, or similar) Flexible structure (faux leather, wire, string)
Creation Method Computer-assisted cutting with CNC router Chemical growth of crystals on a surface
Main Function Rigid, reusable mold for shaping materials Decorative or textural sculptural element
Durability High (structural and long-lasting) Fragile (crystals can break easily)
Detail Level High (depends on digital design and tool size) Low to medium (based on organic crystal growth)
Reusability High (if well maintained) Low (crystals are delicate and moisture-sensitive)
Production Time Medium (depends on design and cutting) Slow (crystals need several hours or days to grow)
Production Cost Medium to high (material and machine-dependent) Low (cheap materials: borax, water, string, etc.)
Ideal Application Prototypes, functional molds, small-scale production Artistic work, material exploration, textures
Aesthetic Precise, clean, industrial Organic, natural, crystalline
Sustainability Depends on wood source Borax is biodegradable, but not entirely harmless


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Recipes

  1. recipe: salmon skin fish-leather ↩