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Process

This project contains 2 parts

  1. Creating a textile from waste that is durable, flexible, wearable
  2. Binding pieces together to create a garment without sewing

What's the Point?

  • Using scraps that otherwise are difficult to use
  • Finding alternatives to sewing / time intensive / body intensive labor

Creating a Textile

First Experiments

Casting: These first experiments were done by experimenting with a few different casting methods, but they were all done by:

  • Starting with a surface sprayed with calcium carbonate solution
  • Coating fabric in bioplastic mixture
  • Spreading bioplastic mixture above or below the coated fabric or both
  • Curing, removing from the base
  • Rinsing and dehydrating

Bioplastic Recipe:

I experimented with 2 recipes, both shared by Beatriz Sandini in her biomaterials lecture

Ingredients Flexible BioSheet Flexible BioPlastic
Sodium Alginate 12g 12g
Glycerol 40g 20g
Water 400g 200g
Sunflower Oil 0g 10g
Calcium Carbonate : Water Ratio 1: 10 1:10

The Biosheet is much smoother, easier to spread The BioPlastic is much thicker and does not spread well, it creates a more uneven surface

Learnings:

  • Not very durable
  • Lots of shrinkage
  • Crackly / Crispy texture
  • Despite the Sunflower oil and lower water amount in the bioplastic, I did not find a big reduction in shrinkage or texture between the bioplastic and biosheet, however the biosheet was much easier to work with when casting as it spreads evenly and more easily

Photos / Videos

Sample 1

Sample 2

Sample 3

Sample 4

Sample 5

Sample 6

Sample 9








MidTerm

Bio Patchwork by Sophia DiMatteo








Second Experiments

Casting:

  • Start on a surface coated with calcium carbonate (AVOID COATING THE WOODEN FRAME)
  • Pour bioplastic mixture onto frame (0.33 g * area of frame), distribute evenly by tilting or apply using a ketchup bottle
  • Generously coat fabric with mixture
  • Place onto wet bioplastic base
  • Add thin layer of bioplastic on top, can spread with fingers
  • Spray with calcium carbonate solution
  • Rinse
  • Let dry

Casting Surface:

  • Flexible Plastic work great for small samples, but for big samples it doesn't hold the weight of the mixture as well
  • Fabric works great as a base for medium sized frames, but when rinsing / curing it can absorb a lot of water and take a long time to dry
  • Fabric type --> using a swimsuit material helps create a smooth surface on the bioplastic as the bioplastic can take some of the texture of the cotton and becomes more matter, but the swimsuit material is too stretchy so it wont support the weight of the wet bioplastic, so using 1 layer of swimsuit material over 1 layer of non-stretch cotton works great
  • Glass or hard plastic works well for big samples as it supports the weight much better, when using glass or hard plastic be careful when coating the surface with calcium carbonate as if you use too much the mixture will cure very fast and wont spread well

Learnings:

  • Wooden frame important for reducing shrinkage as the bioplastic binds to wood and helps hold its shape
  • Avoid coating the wooden frame in calcium carbonate as it won't stick
  • Can add a zipper directly into the fabric and create a strong bond

Lining

As I want to create outerwear, I experimented with lining the bioplastic with something softer, I did this in 3 ways:

  1. Cast the bioplastic on uncured fabric, it will bond and create a lining (Note: Requires a full piece of fabric, not scraps)
  2. Cast and when still wet, paint one side of liner with bioplastic, place on top, cure through the liner
  3. Take finished, cured, dried bioplastic, apply sodium citrate to one side, let rest, rinse, paint one side of liner with bioplastic, place on side that is broken down, cure through liner

Methods 2 and 3 are better because can use scraps as liner

Texture / Different Kinds of Fabric

Cotton sCraps

I wanted to experiment with different types of fabric and scraps to see how I can apply this method

So far I've been using scraps from our fabric store at the fablab, but at the fablab we also have a lot of scraps from small makers in the area from the garments they've created. The fabric is in odd shapes that are not ideal to use for sewing so I want to explore using these more


Knit Wool Scraps

Still in progress, didn't set the same as with other fabrics (Could be because the frame seemed to leak something onto the edges)

Shreds

I like the shreds as a design feature / way to play with the rigidity and texture

No Sew Construction

Construction process

Make a solution of 1:5 Sodium Citrate: Water

Make strips of fabric the size of the seam allowance, In my case 1cm. Soak strips in sodium citrate solution

On Seam Allowance, place soaked strips


Let rest for 20 minutes, wipe with wet towel to remove excess

Add BioPlastic mixture (Thicker recipe) to seam allowance, press together


Hold together, cure with calcium carbonate solution, let dry


Notes:

  • Not happy with the patchwork of this one, want to be mindful of not going overboard for something wearable
  • Glue did not stick as well for this one since it wasn't on a flat surface --> Need to keep refining


Notes:

  • Love this one! Much simpler as its a single piece, but glue worked well and its solid

What is Sodium Citrate?

Sodium citrate is the sodium salt of citric acid. It is white powder and is soluble in water.

It is used as a food additive to control acidity and act as a preservative.

To Do

  1. Perfecting Seams + Testing Strength
  2. Perfecting Casting Big Pieces
  3. Waterproofing
    • Plan to experiment with mixing Agar and beeswax into the mixture to increase hydrophobia

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