7. BioFabricating Materials¶
Research¶
According to Fashion Revolution, nearly two-thirds of garments today are made from fossil-fuel-based synthetics such as polyester, nylon, acrylic, and elastane. Although efforts exist to use recycled plastic for clothing, most of it comes from recycled bottles and not from recycled fabrics or existing garments. It’s estimated that washed textiles could contribute up to 34.8% of the 1.5 billion tons of primary microplastics released each year, posing threats to marine life and human health. Even then, the recycled material content in a garment is usually less than 10%.
Source: FashionRevolutionAustralia via instagram
As a response to the plastics issue, a number of initiatives exist to find alternatives. These involve the use of natural resources as the main component for the materials.
- bioplastics (animal based, plant based)
- bioleathers
- mycellium based materials
Some free resources for recipes and research about biomaterials
Bioplastics Cookbook by Fab Textiles at Fab Lab Barcelona.
HKU labs tutorials - great resource for making and growing biomaterials. Easy UI to filter by base (agar,gellatin, starch, alginate, plant, fruit waste,etc) and by kombucha, mycellium, crystals.
BIOMATERIAL COOKBOOK FOR 3D PRINTING
However, to make biomaterials more durable and resistant they are often mixed with synthetic or plastic materials making them not biodegradable. While there is still a lot of research and development to get to truly sustainable materials, it's nice to see the efforts to create a better future.
References & Inspiration¶
@mogumycellium - Design studio focusting on R&D, innnovation and products for interior design and architecture based on mycelium and biotechnology.
@madewithreishi Reishi™ Fine Mycelium™ is a new class of high-performing biomaterial — crafted from nature, refined for performance by @MycoWorks
Process and workflow¶
We started by looking at the work from previous Fabricademy Alumni at our lab. We found very interesting textures and colors. My favourite were definitely the translucent and the resin-like materials.
Biomaterials.
Agar Bioplastic
- Type: plant-based bioplastic
- Texture: soft, flexible
- Variants: wool, mica powder, madder biodye.
* 5 g Agar
* 15 g Glycerin
* 250 ml Water
* Gold mica powder
* Carded wool
* pots
* stove
* spatula
* scale
* molds
* Measure the ingredients and add to a pot
* Add the liquids last and stir, use the mixer to make a paste
* Put on medium heat, avoid overstirring (don't create bubbles). Do not boil
* Once a syrup consistency is achieved, remove from heat.
* Pour into molds. The mixture will change consistency FAST once it's removed from the heat.
* Let dry for a couple of days.
Alginate Bioplastic
- Type:plant-based bioplastic
- Texture: dense, rigid
- Variants: Campeche biodye, yarn, wool composite.
* 12g Alginate
* 20g Glycerin
* 400ml water
* 10g sunflower seed oil
* 10% Calcium Chloride solution
* carded wool
* pots
* stove
* spatula
* scale
* molds
* squeeze bottle
* Measure the ingredients and add to a pot
* Add the liquids last and stir, use the mixer to make a paste
* Put on medium heat, avoid overstirring (don't create bubbles). Do not boil
* Once a syrup consistency is achieved, remove from heat.
* Pour into molds. Spray with the calcium chloride to set the mixture and start the curation process.
* For the yarn/thread: Pour the mixture into a bath of 10% calcium chloride using a squeeze bottle or syringe, it's important to maintain constant pressure when squeezing so that it does not cut off.
* Let dry for a couple of days.
My classmate Martina, attempted to do crochet with the yarns and it looked great.
Tapioca Bioplastic
- Type:plant-based bioplastic
- Texture: flexible and resistant
- Variants: mica powder
* 100g Tapioca
* 22g Glycerin
* 300ml Water
* 50ml Vinegar
* white/silver mica powder
* carded wool
* pots
* stove
* spatula
* scale
* molds
* Measure the ingredients and add to a pot
* Add the liquids last and stir.
* Put on medium heat, avoid overstirring (don't create bubbles). Do not boil
* Once a sticky paste consistency is achieved, remove from heat.
* Pour into molds quickly.
* Let dry for a couple of days.
Mycellyum
- Type: Grown bioleather from substrate (strain:TBD)
- Texture: leathery soft.
- Variants: carded wool.
- Observations: the mycellium substrate bag in the lab was stored in a closed bag in a fridge but had been opened for at least a year. We'll see if we get the expected results with the mycellium. A sterile environment is needed to avoid cross contamination of the fungi.
* 1kg mycellium substrate
* 30g wheat flour
* carded wool
* alcohol (to clean surfaces)
* gloves
* presure cooker (to sterilize tools)
* face mask
* plastic wrap
* molds
* Sterile bags
* Sterlize the environment, tools, hands, etc. Tools and wool go into streile bags and into the pressure cooker for 20 minutes. Wipe the surface area and hands with alcohol.
* Measure 1kg of mycellium and 30g of wheat flour.
* Fill the mold with the mixture and cover in plastic wrap.
* Pinch holes in the plastic wrap to allow air inside.
* Let the mycellium grow for a few days. Ideal temperature is >20C
* Can be baked or heat pressed to seal.
Mycellium phone case As a small project for this week, I decided to grow the mycellium in the shape of a phone case.
- Start by using a small plastic box, covering it with parchment paper to then use the left over agar bioplastic mixture to create a mold.
- Press the phone case into the "silicone" so that it dries with the correct shape.
- Set if off to dry for 1 day and then on a dehydrator for 1h30. Note: keep the plastic phone case inside so that it prevents shrinkage of the mould.
- Once dried, I removed my phone case from the mould and filled the space with black carded wool and mycellium substrate.
- Put the phone case back in to press the shape in place and cover with plastic wrap so that the mycellium can grow. Results: TBD