4. BioChromes¶
BioChromes Week — Local Flora Pigment Study¶
Ipek Kuscu – Fabricademy 2025–26
Concept¶
Inspired by the local flora around me, I collected plants growing in my neighborhood and explored how their pigments reacted under different conditions — vinegar, sodium carbonate, and coffee kombucha.
My goal was to observe color transformation and create natural lake pigments.
Bu çalışmada çevremdeki sonbahar bitkilerini topladım ve onların sirke, sodyum karbonat ve kahve kombucha gibi farklı ortamlarda nasıl tepki verdiğini gözlemledim.
Amaç; yerel floradan doğal renk elde etmek ve bu renkleri pigmente dönüştürmekti.
Materials Collected¶
- Yellow wildflower – luteolin-like yellow pigment
- Lilac small flower – anthocyanin source
- Purple garden flower – magenta tones
- Red autumn leaves – anthocyanin and tannin
Dye Preparation¶
Each plant was boiled in 1 L of water for 40 minutes at 80 °C, then filtered.
Extracts were divided into 200 mL portions and adjusted with different modifiers.
| Modifier | Additive | Quantity | Effect |
|---|---|---|---|
| Neutral | — | — | Reference tone |
| Vinegar (acidic) | Apple vinegar | 1 tsp (5 mL) | Brightens warm tones |
| Sodium carbonate (basic) | Na₂CO₃ | pinch (~0.5 g) | Shifts hue to cool tones |
| Coffee kombucha (fermented) | Homemade | 1 tbsp (15 mL) | Creates earthy fermented tones |
Fabric Preparation¶
Canvas did not absorb the dye well, so I used unbleached cotton gauze (tülbent) instead.
It absorbed colors beautifully and reacted clearly to modifiers.
- Scoured in 5 L water + 2 tbsp sodium carbonate (1 hour)
- Mordanted with 50 g alum (~15 % WOF, 1 hour at 80 °C)
- Cut into 12 samples (10×10 cm each)
Dyeing Process¶
Samples were immersed in jars with different modifiers:
| Modifier | Immersion Time | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Neutral | 48 h | Slow oxidation |
| Vinegar | 24 h | Warm and bright tones |
| Na₂CO₃ | 12 h | Cool muted hues |
| Coffee kombucha | 48 h | Fermented depth and soft brown shades |
Jars were covered with breathable cloth to allow oxidation and prevent pressure buildup.
Process Images¶
Local flora used for dye extraction – yellow, purple and red autumn plants.
Close-up of collected flowers and leaves before boiling.
Boiling yellow flowers, red leaves, lilac & purple blossoms.
Four modifiers prepared — neutral, vinegar, sodium carbonate and coffee kombucha.
Fabrics soaking in the dye baths.
Dried gauze samples showing visible tone differences.
Final dried fabrics and pigment residues.
Color Results¶
| Plant | Neutral | Vinegar | Na₂CO₃ | Coffee Kombucha |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yellow flower | Golden yellow | Lemon yellow | Olive green | Ochre yellow |
| Lilac flower | Lilac | Pink lilac | Blue purple | Dusty mauve |
| Purple flower | Magenta | Hot pink | Cool violet | Plum brown |
| Red leaf | Wine red | Scarlet | Grey purple | Earthy brown |
🪶 Pigment Extraction¶
After dyeing, I collected the residues (posalar) at the bottom of the jars.
They were dried, ground, and stabilized with alum to obtain fine natural pigments.
Recipe:
1. Let residues settle overnight
2. Remove clear liquid
3. Spread on glass to air-dry (1–2 days)
4. Grind to fine powder
5. Add a pinch of alum to fix color
These powders will later be used to create natural watercolors with gum arabic, glycerin, and honey.
Long Immersion Observation¶
“Samples left inside dye jars for up to 48 hours absorbed richer tones and showed mild oxidation.
Coffee kombucha produced slightly darker fermented hues, connecting the BioChromes process with my fermentation background.”
Reflection¶
This experiment taught me how local flora can produce a unique living color palette.
Every pigment told a small story about time, reaction, and transformation.
Coffee kombucha added a new organic layer, bridging my N2 fermentation practice and biodesign research.
References¶
- Natural Dyes, Dyes N. (2019)
- Local Color Amsterdam – Plant Catalogue (2025)
- Wild Colours Natural Dyes (2024)