Open Source Circular Fashion¶
Weekly Assignment
- Include some inspiration: research on artists or projects that work with modules and zero waste systems
- Document, Design and prototype with paper and scissors modular configurations and interlocking connections
- Document, Design and prototype digitally your modular configurations and interlocking connections in 2D
- Document the process of testing and laser cutting your designs, including the machine settings, material type and thickness
- Laser cut the modules. Create a modular or seamless garment, showing that the connection is well-designed and holds the pull/stretch. Document the assembly process and tests
- Upload the fabrication PDF file at oscircularfashion.com, in 1:1 scale accompanied by 1-5 pictures (preferably in white background)
- Submit some of the modules to the analog or digital material library of the lab. (Recommended size 20cm x 20cm) (extra credit)
What You'll Need
- Paper
- Scissors
- Software
- Fusion 360 - to create your tessellation - to obtain a .pdf file
- Laser Cutter
- Your non-woven fabric/material to laser cut
Research + Inspiration¶
I have to say, this week intimidated me a little bit. Especially because this week, I was still moving and well, needless to say, things have been pretty hectic.
Aside from initimidation, there was excitement. And the more I thought about the assignment, the more excited I got.
I suppose moving back down toward southern California amped me up for possibly attending more small hardcore shows in the inland empire.
I thought about the cool graphic merch - t-shirts, patches, stickers - they sell with bold lines and in-your-face fonts. To the right is a flyer for the hardcore band Darasuum and to the left is another hardcore show flyer for the band Harsh Reality.
Now, the band Gorilla Biscuits isn't from California. They're from New York but, I mean, no discussion of hardcore is complete without Gorilla Biscuits.
I was also inspired by bell flowers and how both their shape and varying color gradients make them so beaufiful.
I came across Louise Massacrier's work from the 2022-23 Fabricademy cohort (and my current instructor!) and I liked how she developed a 2D tessllation that almost lends itself to developing a color gradient organically through transluscent cotton fabric, seen on the right.
I admire the weaving work of indigenous peoples and wanted to incorporate some of that. It's also no coincidence that the Native American strife is closely tied to hardcore and punk music and its culture of resistance.
I have a ton of t-shirts. Not to mention, I often get cold and forget my sweater when I most need it. Thinking about how versatile t-shirts are I thought it'd be cool to modify one and attach a bell-shaped sleeve. T-shirts are so prevalent and accessible and I thought it would present a compelling contrast.
Also, while I was drawing, I got inspired by traces on a printed circuit board!
Investigations¶
I chose to download, laser cut, and try out a couple of designs from my former Fabricademy compatriots on oscircularfashion.com.
I liked these works, despite honestly having some trouble assembling them. I didn't want to go with scale or feather-like pieces. After this little exercise I chose to go more into weaving in conjunction with some simple circular joining.
Paper Prototyping + Testing Connections¶
So, I was quite behind on this week both completing my move and finding suitable access to a laser cutter. Yes, my struggles still continued this week. But in my time, I would often sketch a sleeve, a shape, cut a shape I was looking to interlace into the sleeve of one of my t-shirts. Oh and I endlessly browsed through the oscircularfashion.com website because it's inspiring to see more and more work. Here is the result of that.
My explorations with other students' designs and my own allowed me to visualize enough (at least for the time I've had) to envision connections for the final product. Note to self: Just pick one design and take off running.
2D Design + Nesting¶
I used Fusion 360 to design my shapes. I had SO many ideas as to how my sleeve would look and ultimately my thoughts were pointless. Well, let me ammend that - not pointless, but very energy inefficient. Because I had so many ideas about how this sleeve would look and so on I spent too much time ideating rather than making it. To my defense, I still had minimal access to a laser cutter.
Nevertheless, I designed an upper portion of the sleeve which would be a herringbone weave woven with strips of fabric attached to another piece of wool felt that would moreso be folded and shaped into a sort of "puff" on the lower portion of the sleeve (also a herringbone foldable origami tessellation pattern).
This process was iterative to say the least since my wool sheets had not arrived until today(10 October 2025)! But my files are prepared and ready to cut/score!
Now, I will say that nesting sort of took a back seat with my final file iterations simply because my time to complete this project has far exceeded the week we were given. Suffice it say I did the best I could. So, a note to all of you prospective and current Fabricademy students/admin, don't overthink the design. Just go for it!
Laser Cutting¶
I finally got all my materials! Some scrap 100% wool I already had and more wool sheets I bought.
Oh! Not to mention, I got in contact with the hardcore band I previously mentioned above, Darasuum, and bought a pretty sick shirt from them to attach this sleeve to.
Now onto the laser cutting!
I entered the realm of the SD CoLab which is a makerspace down here in San Diego. Vic, a very awesome director of Laser Cutting knowledge at the CoLab, helped me cut my file super last minute.
We played with the settings on Lightburn to cut and score the wool pieces cleanly and evenly. The problem is 100% wool felt, which is what I used, is never felted quite evenly. There are areas of high density and low density which means settings for cutting and scoring in some areas will need more speed and/or power than others. Getting the settings just right was tricky.
In the end, the lower part of my sleeve, which was supposed to fold into a herringbone tessellation, wasn't scored properly to fold and puff out as intended. All natural wool also seems to shrink and weaken with the heat of the laser. I have ideas for the future... but for now this is how it resulted.
I also manually cut slits in my t-shirt sleeve using a ruler. I designed my strips that were 1/2in or 12.7mm and left another 1/2in gap between each slit to not compromise the structural integrity of the t-shirt sleeve.
Assembly¶
Late but not least! Here is the final iteration. I decided not to weave the strips in a herringbone configuration because it was not noticeable. I chose to do a simple basket weave instead. There's so much I would've done differently but this is what projects like this are for. I'm grateful for my work and hope to improve from here on out.
Perhaps even incorporate this into my final project...?? WHOA! Exciting! Stay tuned!
Fabrication files¶
- Upper Sleeve - Vertical Strips: verticalweavestrips_uppersleeve.dxf
- Upper Sleeve - Horizontal Strips - Revised! Perhaps for your use: horizontalweavestrips_uppersleeve.dxf
- Lower Sleeve - Herringbone Origami Tessellation: herringboneweave_puff.dxf
References¶
- References from oscircularfashion.com
- TiledArt - to help visualize tessellations