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1. Research

NATURAL DYES

Inspiring projects

Fabricademy Graduation Project Video - 'GAIA' from bela rofe on Vimeo.

Brands

Tanin

Pre-mordant

OAK GALLS : used to pre mordant cellulose fiber before the mordant. They do not affect the colour result so much.

For 100 gr of plant fiber : use 10-15% of WOF (powder) --> enough boiling water to cover completely the powedered galls, stirr and keep warm for 30 min, filter to mordant.

Colours

Dyeing baths can last until one week.

PLANTS AND FLOWERS = WEED

  • Usefull weed for kitchen and garden :

Bramble:

Notes :

"Famille des rosacees" it has a lot of tanin, Tige et feuille v

Le corbeau bleu : bramble dye

Consoude :

Le lierre

From the market

  • avocado : skin and pit
  • carrot tops
  • artichoke leaf
  • walnut stain
  • gall walnut

  • cosmos flower

  • red cabbage ?

  • black beans
  • green cabbage ?

LINEN

Linen names companies in France

  • Linportant 0612944559 Director Paul Boyer - call : paul@linportant.fr —> lmail envoyé le 21 janvier
  • Bugis dans l est tricoteur : emarquet@bugis.fr (Emmanuelle Marquet) mail envoyé le 21 janvier Emmanuel lang Alsace tissage de lin : celine.gourbeix@emanuel-lang.fr - mail envoyé le 21 janvier
  • Tissage de charlieu 0612192328 monsieur Lacroix —> message vocal mercredi donc rappeler
  • Lemaitre demeestere 03 20 69 96 08 —> rappeler

  • Regarde aussi sur le site Lin et chanvre bio

  • soutratex in Trois

  • franceteinture
  • chane et tram : 95% tisser (grand textile) et 5 %tricoter (petit textile)

  • Adoucissant hydrofob , anoblissement pas de silicone, si gots ok, cellulose chimiquement lier au colorant --> each dye is different, bath different so different result

  • Tad (next to Rhone)

  • unitex syndicat des teinturiers in lyon

  • The older fabric the better as the fabric will be more absorbant.

Notes : Linen tricotté ne froisse pas contrairement au linen tissé

MICROCAPSULES : inspiring projects

RESEARCH FOR FINAL PRODUCT

Ideas in constant evolution

  • create natural recipes to dye coloured linen vintage fabrics with seasonal waste food —> create like a “natural” board with only one recipe, little embroidered drawings and a matrix from my experiments
  • Create natural and vegetal recipes for coloured linen because Alum is not a natural mordant and good for environment
  • Experiment with white vintage linen sheet (more fabric) and organic soy milk as a mordant —> create a book and a patchwork of all my samples like Kayla Powers
  • Create workshop for kids about natural colours + create a book with my all samples and tips

My presentation for implication and applications week

Mental process

Mix between excitement and disappointment.

During the 3 months, I felt a lot of things and I never went so far into me. It was (and still is) very intense, powerful and powerless. I changed my project several times. I found my final ideas during the last month and I think it is ok because my mind was in constant evolution and today I'm very happy to see all my process. And it is only 3 months of process so I can't imagine for a longer period.

The first month was about defining my project and a lot of research. No practice, only computer :(. It was difficult because I don't like to work only on computer and I was very confused about what I wanted. I was down most of the month.

Second month was the first practice! I had to organize myself a lot and thank god my boyfriend helped me. For me, natural dyes is super cool, chill and fun but in reality it is also very precise and organized. I had difficulties to jump in with both feet.... I was lost most of the time and I enjoyed natural dyes but not as I imagined. And very short month February ahah 28 days is TOO short lol

Last month was unexpected. After the midterm presentation I was super lost, super stressed. Jury and mentors told me that it will be great if I can organize a workshop for kids.... before the end! I was overwhelmed by this proposal. One week later, I talked to Pauline and she told me that it will be great if I do a pojagi.... OH MY GOD. I arrived to the CLIMAX of my project and mind aha I was excited and super lost at the same time. Really strange moment. I felt super down. But surprisingly, I think that (days later) all their good vibes and expectations gave me the strength and the (good) " rage" to focus and be at 400%. This when I decided to organized my workshop and create a pojagi.

Two weeks before the end, I did my workshop and I was stressed as never but WOW! So much joy and pride after I did it! A revelation! During those 3 months, most of the time I though too much about what people will say about my work and I didn't focus enough on what I will say and think. And it is after the workshop that I realised I did it for myself, for children of course but for myself because this workshop, this pojagi is me. This is excatly where I wanted to end up after the 3 months. This is the experiment I wanted to have with natural dyes. Can't be more happy and suprised by the result! So many emotions <3

Inspiring Video / Projects

Sentence I love

  • "where nature, science and the well-being of the wearer would be woven together." from Alexander Bello
  • By William Morris "Natural dyes have to be considered as Art, combining actifs principles to human's hand and willpower to do the right thing".

Final book

  • a book or a frieze

  • frieze with sample and explicative feelings/moments with each sample that explain my emotions : down and up

  • BOOK : with all my recipes and tips and samples, simple book

  • catalog of colours + tablecloth of seasonal colours thanks to kids clothes or samples they have been doing.

  • Pojagi technic to expose my samples and the vegetables I used : Kayla Powers, BOOKHOU,

  • Afficher au mur (Arte povera) de manière poétique , histoire avec vegetaux/materiaux

  • Templates very good from Loes Bogers

PROTOYPE / FRANKENSTEIN

We had to create a first prototype (called frankenstein) for our final project to help us visualize our ideas.

At first, I wanted to create a book with big samples and explicative text. But I was very difficult to imagine it because I was afraid to focus more on the presentation than the experimentation. I'm not used to write and create visuals easylly. That's is why I imagine a poster, a beautiful poster that people could hang on their wall : educative and aesthetically pleasing object.

REGENERATIVE COLOURS is a poster with one recipe that you can experimente with your colored linen textile to give them a second life thanks to seasonal food waste.

I want to use a big piece of linen, a natural linen for now and embroider all my recipe and emoticons.

On the left, there will be the unique recipe, and on the right : the title, the materials and my matrix.

The all poster will be frame in a way.

I love the square shape, it looks chic and original.

Of course, I think it is going to progress all along my project but it is a good start. Even if there was a long way to go, it helped me a lot to do this frankenstein :).

FEEDBACK FROM FRANKENSTEIN

What are you going to do with your leftover dyeing bath ? There are so may ways to explore it but fisrt is to sahre! You can share with your neighbours, friends and also with primary schools. They will love to experimente natural dies and help them to develop their creativity through nature and colours.

Notes : always mark the date and your recipe on your bottle, it is so so important.

Explain :

  • where the plants came from : market, food waste
  • where the fabric came from : home, people home, vintage, recycled textile
  • the materials for dyeing bath : home or vintage materials

--> sustainability product from A to Z that evereybody can find around himself --> accessible financiary and locally

Notes :

  • work on alun process --> less "chemical"

MIDTERM PRESENTATION

Circular economy

CIRCULAR SCHEME / CONCEPTION / ECONOMY = NO WASTE

Nature

Herboristerie food waste

vintage textile - linen - savoir faire ancestral - magical colors that enlight life - create with alive - educate - became "teinturiere en herbe"

Educative workshop

Dahlia Milon : example of how I want to "educate" children

Presentation

WHAT

Create a book with a palette of vegetal/seasonal/atural dyes

--> thanks to vintage linen sheet, seasonal and local waste food, vegetal mordant (soy milk)

WHY

  1. Passion
  2. natural fiber (linen)
  3. vintage treasure in second hand shop --> encourage people to be creative

  4. herboralist formation --> living at the space of nature

  5. Environment

  6. waste food and textile

  7. devastated rivers and landscapes because of chemicials dyes --? stop living against nature

  8. Education

  9. sustainability and zero waste in fahsion design
  10. lack of education in primary schools

INSPIRING PROJECTS

  1. Turbine creative
  2. association which promote textile arts, local consumptopn and DIY
  3. give second life to old mills

  4. develop workshops for children --> learn again to do things with hands

  5. Kayla

  6. harvest plants and flowers from her countryside, going on walk so local vegetables

  7. creative and educative way of showing ger work

  8. Dahlia

  9. looking for her identity and inheritance
  10. create garden with tinctorial plants to develop autonomy of her village
  11. pass down her knowledge to her child --> convey cultural and social inheritance

HOW

Explain recipe : 6 vegetables, 3 recipes, 1 variable, soy milk as a mordant = 100% vegetal

Where to go : second bath, second maordant, mix and match, create my palette, use the entire dye bath

FOR WHO

  • me
  • children : open door to emphasise their intuitive side through artistic and scientific process
  • concerned people

PERSPECTIVES

  1. Book : develop my own recipes and create a real book
  2. Educative workshop : it is important to me to pass down my knowledge, to increase awareness, develop intuitive side/autonomy/solidarity
  3. Environment : devastated rivers --> educate people to keep waste food.

Notes : After the presentation I asked myself many questions. Do I want to speak about dyes or colours ? Do I want to do a workshop with kids to see how is the experimente ? (before the end of 3 months). I will talk about it in an other page "Workshop with children".

Last update: 2022-08-03