Week 10: Textile Scaffold¶

3D Printed Mold for Leather Anatomical Mask¶

Exploring natural cow leather as a textile scaffold through wet-forming and digital fabrication

Weekly Assignment

Check out the weekly assignment here or login to your NuEval progress and evaluation page.

Project Overview¶

For this week's textile scaffold assignment, I explored how natural cow leather can act as a three-dimensional textile scaffold when shaped over a digitally fabricated form. Cow leather has unique properties: when soaked in warm water, it becomes soft and pliable, allowing it to be stretched and molded. As it dries, the collagen fibers lock into place, creating a rigid structure that maintains the molded shape.

I combined traditional leather wet-forming techniques with modern 3D printing technology to create an anatomical face mask. Instead of using traditional plaster molds, I designed a digital 3D model and 3D printed a precision mold, allowing for higher accuracy, faster iteration, and complex geometries that would be difficult to achieve with conventional methods.

The final result demonstrates how natural cow leather behaves as a textile scaffold—transforming from a flat, flexible material into a sculptural, three-dimensional form that expresses anatomical contours and organic textures.

Fabrication Experience

While my primary project used 3D printing for the face mold, I also gained valuable hands-on experience with CNC milling through collaborative sample projects with colleagues at the lab. This dual exposure helped me understand the strengths of different digital fabrication approaches for mold-making.

Reference Images & Inspiration¶

Before beginning my project, I studied the traditional leather mask-making process documented in the "Full-Faced Leather Mask" instructional PDF from Instructables. This reference demonstrated the fundamentals of wet-forming leather over three-dimensional forms.

Traditional Leather Mask-Making Process¶

Traditional plaster mold preparation

Wet leather stretching technique

Forming over facial contours

Pressing into detailed areas

Edge securing and tension control

Drying and hardening process

Trimming and edge finishing

Final mask with details

Key Insights from Traditional Process:

Vegetable-tanned leather is ideal for wet-forming due to its fiber structure
Water temperature and soaking time are critical for proper flexibility
Manual shaping requires pressing into contours while maintaining even tension
Drying time determines final rigidity and shape retention
Traditional plaster molds can be replaced with CNC-milled precision forms

Tools and Materials Reference¶

Traditional leather-working tools: wooden shapers, edge bevelers, and smoothing tools

Example of finished leather face mask showing natural texture and anatomical form

Research Phase¶

Natural Cow Leather Structure¶

Natural cow leather is composed of collagen fibers from animal hide that can absorb water and temporarily become malleable. This property, combined with the material's natural strength and authentic texture, makes it ideal for use as a textile scaffold. I researched how:

Natural cow hide provides durable, organic material that responds excellently to water-based forming
Collagen fiber alignment from the animal's skin determines how the material stretches and holds shape
Thickness (1.5-2mm) provides the right balance between flexibility and structural integrity
Collagen cross-linking during drying creates permanent shape retention
Natural grain patterns create authentic, organic surface characteristics

Wet-Forming Techniques¶

Traditional leather forming (also called tooling or molding) has been used for centuries. Key techniques I studied include:

Casing: Controlled wetting where leather absorbs just enough moisture to become workable
Cuir-bouilli: Medieval "boiled leather" technique where heating accelerates hardening
Tension control: How to stretch leather evenly without tearing or creating weak points
Drying management: Slow, even drying prevents cracking and warping

3D Printing for Mold Making¶

Instead of traditional plaster or clay molds, I chose 3D printing as my primary method for creating precise, customizable molds:

Digital modeling allows exact anatomical proportions and easy design iterations
Complex geometries including undercuts and fine details are easily achievable
Fast prototyping enables quick design-test-refine cycles
Material options include PLA, PETG, or ABS depending on durability needs
Surface finish can be adjusted through print settings and post-processing
Cost-effective for one-off or small batch production

I also gained hands-on CNC milling experience through collaborative sample projects with colleagues, exploring subtractive manufacturing techniques for mold fabrication and understanding the trade-offs between additive and subtractive methods.

Textile Scaffolds in Design¶

A textile scaffold is a structural framework that supports and shapes flexible materials. In this context, leather acts as both:

The scaffold itself: The leather provides the structural framework
Scaffolded material: The CNC mold shapes the leather into its final form

This dual nature demonstrates how textiles can transition from flat, formless sheets into complex three-dimensional structures through controlled shaping processes.

Alumni Inspiration & References¶

Fabricademy Alumni Projects¶

I studied several excellent textile scaffold projects from previous Fabricademy students:

Fatemeh Mollaie - CNC Material Archive - FabLab Armenia
Shahed Jamhour - Digital Crafts - CPF Makerspace
Zahia Albakri - CNC Mold Exploration - CPF Makerspace
Viviane Labelle - Crystallisation - EchoFab
Lisa Boulton - Mould Making
Betiana Pavon - Millinery

These projects inspired my approach to combining traditional craft with digital fabrication tools.

Initial Concept & Sketches¶

Design Concept:

The sketches show the anatomical mask from three key perspectives:

Front view: Emphasizes symmetry, brow ridge, nose bridge, and cheekbone contours
Profile view: Shows depth, nose projection, and how the mask curves around facial features
Tension map: Indicates areas of high stretch (red) vs. low stretch (blue) during wet-forming

The goal was to create a mask that follows natural anatomical lines while demonstrating how leather conforms to complex 3D surfaces when wet-formed over a precision mold.

Design Phase: 3D Modeling¶

I began the digital design process by creating a 3D model of a human face that would serve as the basis for the 3D printed mold. The modeling workflow combined anatomical accuracy with practical fabrication considerations optimized for additive manufacturing.

Modeling Process¶

Step 1: Base Model¶

Imported a base human head model into Fusion 360/Blender
Scaled to life-size proportions
Verified anatomical landmarks (nose bridge, cheekbones, brow ridge)

Step 2: Mask Region¶

Cropped the model to mask area (forehead → nose → cheeks → upper jaw)
Defined mask boundaries and edge curves
Simplified geometry for cleaner CNC toolpaths

Step 3: Mold Preparation¶

Added surface smoothing to remove sharp edges
Created thick backing shape for 3D print stability
Optimized geometry for layer-by-layer printing
Ensured proper support structures where needed

Step 4: Export for 3D Printing¶

Verified model integrity and checked for errors
Exported as STL file for slicing software
Validated mesh quality, watertightness, and file size
Optimized orientation for minimal support material

Design Considerations:

Smooth surfaces prevent leather tearing during stretching
Gradual curves allow even tension distribution across the surface
Adequate depth captures all facial contours accurately
Edge design enables secure clamping without damaging leather

3D Printing the Face Mold¶

3D Printing Demo Video¶

Demo video showing the 3D printing process of the face mask mold

📥 Download Video (1.7MB)

3D Printed Mold Results¶

Front view of the completed 3D printed face mask mold in PLA

3D printed mold showing dimensional accuracy and surface detail

Material Selection for 3D Printing¶

I chose PLA (Polylactic Acid) as the 3D printing material because it:

Provides excellent dimensional stability and smooth surface finish
Has sufficient rigidity to withstand leather tension during wet-forming
Prints reliably with minimal warping or layer separation
Is environmentally friendly (biodegradable, plant-based)
Can be post-processed (sanded, sealed) if needed for water resistance
Cost-effective for prototyping and one-off production

3D Printing Process¶

3D Printing Settings¶

Slicing Configuration:

Layer height: 0.2mm for balance of speed and detail
Infill: 20% gyroid pattern for strength with material efficiency
Wall thickness: 3 perimeters for structural integrity
Support structures: Tree supports for complex facial geometry
Print orientation: Face-up to minimize supports in detail areas

Printer Settings:

Nozzle temperature: 210°C (PLA optimal range)
Bed temperature: 60°C for adhesion
Print speed: 50 mm/s for quality
Cooling: 100% fan after first layer for clean overhangs

Printing & Post-Processing Steps¶

STL Import: Loaded face mold model into slicing software (Cura/PrusaSlicer)
Orientation Optimization: Positioned model to minimize supports in facial detail areas
Support Generation: Applied tree supports for overhangs while keeping surface clean
Print Execution: 8-12 hour print time depending on size and layer height
Support Removal: Carefully removed support structures without damaging surface
Surface Finishing: Light sanding (220-grit) on contact areas for smoothness
Inspection: Verified dimensional accuracy and surface quality

The resulting 3D printed mold provides a precise, lightweight face shape with excellent detail capture for leather wet-forming.

CNC Experience with Colleagues¶

While my primary project used 3D printing, I also gained valuable hands-on experience with CNC milling through collaborative sample projects with colleagues at the lab. This exposure provided insights into subtractive manufacturing techniques and helped me understand the comparative advantages of both digital fabrication methods.

CNC Workshop Experience¶

Different types of CNC spindles and cutting tools we explored

Me working on CNC tool setup and calibration

Securing material on CNC bed for precision milling

Comparative Insights: 3D Printing vs CNC¶

Through working with both methods, I learned:

3D Printing Advantages: - Faster setup and execution for complex geometries - No material waste (additive process) - Easier to create undercuts and internal features - Lower barrier to entry for beginners

CNC Milling Advantages: - Superior surface finish quality - Wider material options (foam, MDF, wood, plastics, metals) - Better for large-scale production - No support structure removal needed

For this leather mask project, 3D printing proved ideal due to the complex facial geometry and rapid prototyping needs.

Materials & Tools¶

Leather Material¶

Natural cow leather (1.5-2mm thickness)
Sourced from quality animal hide
Natural, undyed finish with authentic grain texture
Size: Large enough to cover mask area with overhang
Quality: Clean surface without blemishes or weak spots

Forming Tools¶

3D printed PLA face mold
Large container for water bath
Thermometer for water temperature monitoring
Wooden shaping tools (rounded ends)
Clamps or strong tape for securing edges
Clean cloths for wiping excess water

Finishing Tools¶

Sharp scissors or craft knife
Fine-grit sandpaper (220-400 grit)
Edge beveler (optional)
Leather dye or paint (optional)
Wax or oil for treatment (optional)
Hole punch for strap attachment

Leather Preparation & Wet-Forming¶

Leather Selection¶

For this project, I used natural cow leather (1.5-2mm thickness) because:

Contains natural collagen fibers from cow hide that realign and lock into new shapes when wet
Thickness provides enough structure to hold shape when dried
Natural fiber orientation from the animal skin makes it ideal for 3D forming
Authentic grain texture creates organic, realistic surface quality
Undyed natural finish allows for optional post-forming treatment or dyeing
Cow hide offers excellent durability and shape retention

Wetting Process: Casing the Leather¶

Natural cow leather soaking in boiled water to soften the collagen fibers

Stage 1: Boiling Water

Boiled water to 100°C then allowed to cool slightly
Hot water necessary for thicker leather
Prepares leather for maximum pliability

Stage 2: Soaking

Duration: 30 minutes full immersion
Extended time needed due to leather thickness
Watch for color change (darker when saturated)
Leather becomes soft and pliable throughout
All collagen fibers absorb water evenly

Stage 3: Excess Removal

Gently wipe surface water with clean cloth
Remove drips but keep leather saturated inside
Timing is critical—must form immediately
Working time: 15-20 minutes before leather dries

Critical Timing

Wet-forming must happen immediately after casing. As the leather dries, it loses malleability rapidly. Work quickly but carefully during the forming phase.

Challenge Encountered: Leather Thickness¶

Material Challenge

The natural cow leather I sourced turned out to be thicker and harder than anticipated, making it more difficult to stretch and conform to the 3D printed mold's detailed facial contours. The increased rigidity required:

Longer soaking time to achieve adequate softness
Greater manual force during shaping
More careful attention to prevent tearing at stress points
Additional patience in working the leather into fine details

Forming on 3D Printed Mold¶

Step-by-Step Shaping Technique¶

Initial Placement: Positioned wet natural cow leather centered over the 3D printed mold face shape
Manual Pressing: Using palms and fingers, pressed leather into recessed areas (eyes, nose, cheekbones) working from center outward
Edge Tensioning: Applied gentle tension to outer edges to eliminate wrinkles and ensure smooth contour following
Final Adjustment: Used rounded wooden tools to refine detail areas and ensure full contact with mold surface

Textile Scaffold Behavior

The leather acts as a textile scaffold—its fiber network provides structural integrity while allowing 3D deformation. During forming, collagen fibers slide past each other while maintaining overall material cohesion, creating a stable three-dimensional shape.

Forming Process Documentation¶

Heated natural cow leather being formed over the 3D printed mold

Pressing the leather into facial contours despite thickness challenges

Securing edges with plastic tape due to limited securing material availability

Securing for Drying¶

Once fully shaped, I secured the natural cow leather edges with:

Plastic tape around mold perimeter to maintain tension
Wrapped edges tightly to prevent lifting during drying
Additional pressing on areas prone to spring-back

Material Availability Challenge

Finding appropriate materials to secure the leather to the mold was challenging. Traditional leather-working clamps and specialized securing tools weren't readily available in the lab. As a practical solution, I used plastic tape, which proved effective despite not being the conventional choice. The tape maintained adequate tension throughout the drying process, though specialized leather clamps would have provided more even pressure distribution.

The natural cow leather must remain fixed to the 3D printed mold throughout the entire drying process to lock in the shape permanently. The PLA mold provides a stable, rigid surface that won't deform under the leather's tension.

Drying & Hardening¶

Drying Parameters¶

Duration: 24-48 hours depending on ambient conditions
Environment: Room temperature, moderate airflow
Positioning: Remained secured to CNC mold throughout drying
Monitoring: Checked periodically for even drying without warping

Observations¶

As water evaporated, I observed:

Gradual color lightening back toward original tone
Progressive stiffening as collagen fibers lock into position
Retention of all surface details captured from CNC mold
No significant shrinkage or distortion
Surface became hard and rigid when fully dry

Trimming & Finishing¶

Edge Trimming¶

Carefully removed excess leather beyond mask perimeter
Used sharp scissors for clean cuts
Followed natural mask outline from CNC mold shape
Left small allowance for strap attachment points

Edge Smoothing¶

Sanded cut edges with fine-grit sandpaper (220-400)
Beveled sharp corners for comfortable wear
Created smooth transitions between surfaces
Removed any rough fibers or imperfections

Optional Finishing¶

Consider additional treatments:

Dyeing: Add color if desired
Waxing: Seal and protect surface
Oiling: Condition leather for flexibility
Strap attachment: Punch holes for elastic or ribbon ties

Final Results & Reflections¶

Project Outcomes¶

✓ Successfully created a rigid, anatomical face mask from flexible natural cow leather using wet-forming
✓ 3D printed PLA mold provided precise, detailed geometry with smooth contours
✓ Natural cow leather textile scaffold demonstrated excellent formability and shape retention
✓ Final piece is structurally sound, lightweight, and wearable with authentic texture
✓ Process proved textile scaffolds can achieve complex geometries through digital fabrication (3D printing)
✓ Gained comparative experience with both 3D printing and CNC milling through lab collaborations

Technical Reflections¶

What Worked Well

3D printed PLA mold captured fine facial details with excellent resolution
Natural cow leather responded perfectly to wet-forming process
Collagen fiber structure from cow hide locked into shape with no spring-back after drying
Working time was sufficient for careful shaping and adjustment
PLA material provided adequate rigidity without deforming under leather tension

Challenges Encountered

Leather thickness issue: The natural cow leather was thicker and harder than expected, making it difficult to stretch and conform to the detailed facial contours of the 3D printed mold
Longer soaking required: Thicker leather needed extended hot water immersion to achieve adequate pliability
Material availability: Finding proper leather-securing materials (traditional clamps, stretching tools) was challenging in the lab
Improvised solution: Used plastic tape as an alternative securing method, which worked but wasn't ideal for even pressure distribution
Edge wrinkles: Thicker leather required more careful tensioning to eliminate wrinkles without tearing
Increased manual effort: Harder leather demanded greater force during forming process

Design Insights: Natural Cow Leather as Textile Scaffold¶

This project revealed key insights about natural cow leather functioning as a textile scaffold:

Structural Framework: The collagen fiber network from cow hide acts as an internal framework that provides strength while allowing deformation
Memory Effect: Wet-forming creates permanent shape memory—fibers physically relocate and lock into new positions
Hybrid Material Behavior: Natural cow leather bridges textiles (flexible, fiber-based) and composites (rigid when cured)
Digital + Craft Integration: 3D printing creates precision scaffold molds quickly and efficiently, while traditional wet-forming techniques shape the material
Authentic Texture: Natural grain patterns from cow hide create organic, realistic surface characteristics impossible to replicate artificially

The natural cow leather doesn't just cover the shape—it becomes the shape itself through fiber reorganization, demonstrating true textile scaffold behavior. The combination of 3D printing for mold fabrication and traditional leather craftsmanship proved highly effective.

Lessons Learned from Challenges¶

The obstacles encountered during this project provided valuable learning experiences:

Material Specification Matters: Understanding leather thickness specifications before sourcing is critical. For complex 3D forms, 1.0-1.5mm vegetable-tanned leather would have been more suitable than the thicker natural cow hide I used. The trade-off is between formability (thinner = easier) and final structural strength (thicker = stronger).

Improvisation Skills: When traditional tools aren't available, creative problem-solving becomes essential. While plastic tape wasn't ideal, it demonstrated that: - Alternative securing methods can work if applied thoughtfully - Even pressure distribution matters more than the specific material used - Lab constraints often require practical adaptations

Process Timing: Thicker leather requires: - Longer soaking times (10-15 minutes vs. 5-10 minutes) - More aggressive heating (closer to 70°C than 60°C) - Extended working time before drying begins - Greater physical effort during forming

These challenges ultimately enriched my understanding of leather as a textile scaffold and highlighted the importance of material testing and preparation in digital fabrication workflows.

Fabrication Files¶

3D Model Files¶

Face mold STL file for 3D printing
Original Fusion 360/Blender source files
Print-ready G-code files
Slicing configuration (layer height, infill, supports)

📄 Download 3D Files

3D Printing Demo¶

Video showing complete printing process
Time-lapse of layer-by-layer fabrication
Print settings and material specifications

📹 View Video

CNC Experience Documentation: - Photos from collaborative CNC sample projects - Different spindle types and cutting tools explored - Material setup and fixturing techniques

� View CNC Photos

Documentation¶

Design sketches (3 perspectives)
Process photos (reference images)
Technical specifications
Material observations

📄 View Images

← Week 09: Wearables | Week 11: Applications & Implications →