• 14g Unflavored gelatin powder (grenetina)
• 60ml Hot water
• 15ml Liquid glycerin
• Optional: Food coloring or natural pigments
• Inclusions: Fallen flower petals from my garden

• Cooking stove / Heating source
• Small pot & mixing spoons (stir gently to avoid air bubbles)
• Kitchen scale (for precise gram measurements)
• Silicone and plastic molds (exploring different shapes and textures)

1. Dissolve: Heat the water without letting it boil. Slowly add the unflavored gelatin powder and stir until completely dissolved.
2. Plasticize: Pour in the liquid glycerin. Stir very gently and slowly to avoid generating unwanted air bubbles in the compound.
3. Pigment: Add the food coloring or natural pigments if you wish to give your batch a colorful background.
4. Cast & Embed: Carefully pour the liquid slurry into your flat trays or silicone molds. At this stage, place the collected flower petals into the liquid to test organic inclusions. Experiment with thickness: cast thin layers for translucent sheets and thick layers for rigid resins.
5. Cure: Let the sheets sit undisturbed at room temperature for 2 to 3 days until fully cured and dried.

• 3 Liters of water
• 500ml Starter culture (liquid kombucha)
• 18g Green or black tea
• 300g Granulated sugar
• Troubleshooting Agent: A splash of vinegar (to adjust pH and prevent mold)

• 100g Wet, harvested Kombucha SCOBY
• 150ml Hot water
• 30g Unflavored gelatin powder (grenetina)
• 25g Liquid glycerin (increased ratio for maximum flexibility)
• Aesthetics: Vegetable coloring or natural pigments

• Large boiling pot & kitchen scale
• High-speed blender (to pulverize the bio-pulp for Method B)
• Breathable cloth cover, pH testing strips & rubber bands
• Wide cultivation containers (sterilized with rubbing alcohol)

1. Brew the Culture (Method A): Bring 1 Liter of water to a boil. Remove from heat, add the tea leaves, and pour in the sugar. Stir until fully integrated. Add the remaining 2 Liters of room-temperature water and let it cool down below 30°C.
2. Inoculate & Sanitize: Pour the mix into your container—which must be sanitized with rubbing alcohol to avoid contamination. Add the 500ml of starter culture.
3. Overcoming Mold: Our first batch developed mold. For our second batch, we successfully prevented fungal growth by adding a splash of vinegar to lower the pH. Wrap the container with a breathable cloth and let it grow.
4. Maintenance: Regularly monitor the culture using pH strips. If acidity drops below a pH of 2, prepare a fresh solution of sweet tea to "feed" the SCOBY.
5. Harvest & Processing Method A (Pure Sheet): Thoroughly wash the live SCOBY mat, stretch it gently, and place it over a flat mold to dry.
6. Harvest & Processing Method B (Blended Composite): Take 100g of the wet harvested SCOBY and blend it completely into a fine bio-pulp. In a separate container, dissolve 30g of gelatin in 150ml of hot water. Add the 25g of liquid glycerin and coloring, then mix it thoroughly with the blended SCOBY pulp. Cast the uniform slurry into a mold and let it dry.

(Reference Video) video made by Tere De León that includes the whole process our group kombucha

• 500g Dry straw (paja)
• 20g Calcium Carbonate (\(CaCO_3\) - pH regulator)
• 3% Approx. Mycelium grain spawn (seeds relative to straw weight)
• Sterilization: 70% Ethanol spray

• Large sterilization pot
• Latex gloves & face masks
• Custom structural molds (sanitized)
• Dark plastic storage bags
• Direct sunlight or baking oven

1. Prep the Substrate: Weigh the dry straw and wash it thoroughly to remove excess dirt. Chop it into small pieces so the fungal hyphae can cover it easily.
2. Sterilize: Boil the chopped straw with the calcium carbonate in a large pot for approximately one hour. (Note: Up to 30% of other organic ingredients can be mixed in, but straw must always remain the main base).
3. Cool: Remove the straw and let it cool completely. If handled while hot, the temperature will kill the living mycelium seeds.
4. Inoculate: Sanitize your hands, gloves, the mold, and the workspace with 70% ethanol. Pack a layer of straw into the mold, scatter a portion of mycelium seeds, and repeat this layering process until full.
5. Grow (Dark Phase): Cover the mold leaving a tiny air vent. Store it in a dark, isolated place away from the sun. Once the block turns completely white, demold it and place it inside a dark plastic bag to finish colonization.
6. Inhibit: Place the white structural block under direct sunlight or bake it to stop fungal growth. Once inert, the piece can be safely processed with tools like a laser cutter or CNC router.

• Thread Base: 2g Sodium Alginate powder + 100ml water
• Plasticizer: 5ml Liquid glycerin (prevents brittleness)
• Coagulation Bath: 5g Calcium Chloride powder + 500ml water
• Aesthetics: Vegetable coloring

• Hand blender or kitchen mixer
• Deep tray or elongated basin
• Syringe (without needle)
• Rinsing bowl with clean water

1. Formulate the Gel: Sprinkle the sodium alginate and glycerin into the 100ml of water. Blend vigorously with a mixer until it is smooth and clump-free. Let the thick mix rest until the air bubbles disappear.
2. Prepare the Bath: Dissolve the 5g of calcium chloride completely into the 500ml of water inside your deep tray.
3. Extrude: Fill the syringe with your alginate gel. Press the plunger at a constant, steady speed while moving your hand across the calcium bath. The liquid turns into a solid filament instantly upon contact.
4. Cure & Rinse: Leave the extruded threads submerged for 3 to 10 minutes to allow the inner core to solidify completely. Remove them carefully and rinse them in a bowl of clean water to wash away excess salts.
5. Dry: Hang the bio-threads or lay them flat on a non-stick surface. After 12-24 hours, they will lose volume and dry into fine, flexible, and highly resilient cords.