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Rhizome

Here is my presentation, enjoy!

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BoM bill of materials

I bought my Merino wool for its quality at Bart & Francis in Courtrai, Belgium. Bart & Francis are 2 people who work on the creation of threads for haute couture and test the threads. It’s a bit like an Ali-baba cave of the thread! I chose this supplier because it is available to advise on each thread. It is also possible to buy 100 grs coils, mix a very large number of colors, in order to make tests or small quantities.

It is possible to find more accessible prices elsewhere.

Every jacquard samples are made in 4 colors, 2 threads each. Here are my favorite whool:

Jacquard

• Mérinos SuperKnit - 2 threads 100 gram 100% extra fine 19 micron super soft merino felt resistant 100gr = 1500mt 9,50 euros VAT

• Invisible thread - 1 thread 1000 meter/cone special for invisible knit & embroidery structures perfect transparence illusion invisible 100%PES 3 euros VAT / 1000 meters

Dyeing project

• Invisible thread - 1 thread 1000 meter/cone special for invisible knit & embroidery structures perfect transparence illusion invisible 100%PES 3 euros VAT / 1000 meters

• Cotton Boucletty - 1 thread 100gram = 700mt 82% west indian sea island cotton 18% core binder PA 3,5 euros VAT

• Tencel - 1 or 2 threads2500mt=100gram EU produced tencel VORTEX SPUN vortex single ply = more torsion!!! 3 euros VAT

• The polyester yarn comes from a spool of sewing thread, which is quite thick (800 meters per 100 grams). It doesn’t react very well during knitting; I would have to find a more suitable alternative.

https://www.ojolly.net/knitting/2024/yarns-for-kniterate-knitting

Creating a Birdseye Jacquard Knit

Creating the Jacquard Image

  • Design the image for the jacquard.
  • Scale the image to 1 pixel = 1 stitch.
  • Maximum width: 252 pixels.
  • Account for vertical distortion of about 120%. Test it!
  • Save the image as .png or .jpg.

How to Dither an Image

  1. Import the already scaled image to www.dithermark.com.
  2. Choose the number of colors (2 to 4 max).
  3. Modify the color palette.
  4. Select a dithering algorithm.
  5. Export as PNG (not .jpg).

Tip 1: Use the "Image" tab to adjust settings. Only use "Filters (pre-dither)" settings. Tip 2: Apply settings to multiple images using "Batch convert Image files."

Programming on editor.kniterate.design

  • Move work (hold Shift to select in this mode)
  • Select
  • Edit
  • Edit by line
  • Image?

Stitch Types

  • Stitch numbers
  • Carriage numbers

Tip: Click the mouse button to move the image on the screen.

Create a New File

  • Rename/save the file: Unlock the padlock.
  • If you duplicate, the editor saves the current file first.

Sizing Your Work

  1. In LAYER, the CANVAS appears by default.
  2. Hover to see icons (Pencil/Eye/Trash).
  3. Click the PENCIL.
  4. Enter the number of stitches in SHAPE (width x height).
  5. Click anywhere on the window to validate your choices.

Casting On Stitches

  1. In LAYER, click + and select Waste + Cast-on.
  2. Select the location.
  3. Select Pick selection.
  4. Select row 1 with the selection tool (right-click, set selection/course wise).
  5. The cast-on rows appear at the bottom.

Adjust:

  • Waste yarn: YARN 2 (PLA thread)
  • Body yarns: Use carriages, e.g., 3, 4, 5, 6
  • Check IS JACQUARD
  • In interlock, write: stitch 4 (tension applied to thread 2 in PLA)

Creating a Double Jacquard

  1. In LAYER, click + and select Birdseye Jacquard.
  2. Click Location/Pick selection, select the 4th yellow row above the waste yarn: select the darkest row.
  3. Click the black window to upload the .png image.
  4. If there's an error, check that the pixel format and number of colors match the CANVAS image.

Assign each color to a yarn guide:

  • Yarn 3 / Yarn 4 / Yarn 5 / Yarn 6

Important: - For 2-color jacquard: Check Invert colors. - For 3 or 4-color jacquard: Check Full needle.

Editing Block Parameters (Optional)

  1. In LAYER, click + and select Edit option columns.
  2. Adjust parameters for the entire block.
  3. Fill in stitch 4 for thread tension in the image.

Finishing the Jacquard

  1. In LAYER, click + and select Front <> rear transfers.
  2. Select the last rows (top), ensuring all colors are present.
  3. You should get 2 staggered rows of arrows so all stitches are transferred to the front bed.

Changing Previous Block Parameters

  1. In LAYER, click + and select Free Edit.
  2. To facilitate binding off with a crochet hook, change the tension to 10 on the front bed and choose the same yarn color as the cast-on.

Finishing the Knit with Waste Yarn

  • Ensure there are 10-30 rows of waste yarn 2.
  • Fill in Interlock: "Stitch 4".

Dropping Stitches

  • In Free Edit, delete the last 2 rows and place DROP stitches on the front bed alternately with tension 6.

References: - 3 Ways of Finishing Your Knit - Alternative Bind-offs

Improving Straight Edges

  • In SETTINGS/COMPILAR OPTION, reduce carriage spacing to 1 and 1.5.

Starting the Knit

  • Export Knit to a .kc file (place on the SD card).
  • Check: Yarn guides are placed at the start of the row.

Creating a Stitch Image Knit

Creating a Double Jacquard

  1. In LAYER, click + and select Stitch image.
  2. Select your 2-color image.
  3. Assign front/back stitch types.

Adding Rows

  • Add 1 row of jersey stitch on the front bed at the bottom and top of the work.

Adding Transfers

  1. In LAYER, click + and select Front <> rear transfers.
  2. Select all rows and apply.
  3. Fill option: roller 0 stitch 0 speed 120.

Casting On Stitches

  1. In LAYER, click + and select Waste + Cast-on.
  2. Select the location.
  3. Select Pick selection.
  4. Select row 1 with the selection tool (right-click, set selection/course wise).
  5. The cast-on rows appear at the bottom.
  6. Add: Stitch 4.

Adding End Stitches

  1. In LAYER, click + and select Resize workspace.

Changing Previous Block Parameters

  1. In LAYER, click + and select Free Edit.
  2. To facilitate binding off with a crochet hook, change the tension to 10 on the front bed and choose the same yarn color as the cast-on.

Finishing the Knit with Waste Yarn

  • Ensure there are 10-30 rows of waste yarn 2 with tension 4.

Dropping Stitches

  • In Free Edit, delete the last 2 rows and place DROP stitches on the front bed alternately with tension 6.

References: - 3 Ways of Finishing Your Knit - Alternative Bind-offs

Improving Straight Edges

  • In SETTINGS/COMPILAR OPTION, reduce carriage spacing to 1 and 1.5.

Creating a TXT Jacquard Knit

Creating the Black & White File

  • Create your black & white file in KRITA or GIMP.
  • Export the image as .XPM (Windows text file).
  • Download from GitLab: kniterate-tools.
  • Place the image in the unzipped folder.
  • Use the tab to suggest previously used names.

Open Application/Utilities/Terminal

  • Type the Python script (case-sensitive): 
    python3 cleanXPM.py image.xpm -c2
    (-c2 = 2 colors)

Create an Image File

  • Run a Bash script: 
    bash xpm2jacquard-2colors.sh image.txt
  • This creates a file named image....txt.

Select the File in Layer/TXT Image

  • Select the stitch type (Front, Back/MISS???).

Note: - For empty stitches, use a horizontal dash to limit kicks.

Tip: Test in reversible mode. Tip: Reduce the length of dropped stitches by creating a dot pattern. Tip: Adjust the vanishing.

Here is a tutorial in French I did for 3 differents kind of Jacquard: docs/files/Check_list_Kniterate.docx

Story telling script

My sketches for the story telling session tell a story about my concept and lead to the final outcome in..


  • scene 1 the scene opens with a room full of flowers
  • scene 2 we zoom into the lady wearing a plant based dress



- scene 3 she comes out from behind the plants


- scene 4 ... whats next?


A good exaple of story telling sketches are from ...Florencia Moyano https://class.textile-academy.org/2022/florencia-moyano/finalproject/prefinal03/

FABRICATION FILES

Fabrication files

  1. File: 3d modelling of mannequin ↩

  2. File: Laser cut sheets ↩