4. BioChromes¶

Research¶

Coffee Dyeing¶

Coffee dyeing is a creative and eco-friendly way of using brewed coffee or leftover coffee grounds as a source of natural color. This experiment explores how coffee can be transformed into a sustainable dye for fabrics.

Synthetic dyes dominate the textile and art industries, but they come at a cost—polluting water, consuming high amounts of energy, and often leaving behind harmful waste. As the world searches for greener alternatives, natural dyes—sometimes called biochromes—are making a comeback. Coffee, one of the most consumed drinks in the world, is not only part of daily life but also an abundant source of natural color. Every year, tons of used coffee grounds are thrown away, yet these leftovers can produce beautiful earthy tones when repurposed for dyeing. This makes coffee dyeing more than just a craft—it’s a way to reuse waste, protect the environment, and create art with meaning.

* Dye book [title](https://class.textile-academy.org/2025/isobel-leonard/assignments/week04/)

* Inks & folds[Germarillis Ruiz - FabLab Bcn](https://class.textile-academy.org/2025/germarilis-ruiz/assignments/week04/#color-swatches)

* Woven documentation matrix [Riley Cox - TextileLab Amsterdam](https://class.textile-academy.org/2024/riley-cox/assignments/week04/)

* Comparison inks [Stephanie Johnsons - TextileLab Amsterdam](https://class.textile-academy.org/2024/stephanie-johnson/assignments/week04/#i-n-k-s)

* Documentation formats [Julia Karas - FabLab Bcn](https://class.textile-academy.org/2024/julija-karas/assignments/week04/#assembled-fabricated-biopantone)

* [Margret Guttormsdottir](https://class.textile-academy.org/2023/margret-guttormsdottir/assignments/week04/)

* Artistic intervention [title](https://class.textile-academy.org/2021/kate.reed/)

References & Inspiration¶

Synthetic dyes dominate the textile and art industries, but they come at a cost—polluting water, consuming high amounts of energy, and often leaving behind harmful waste. As the world searches for greener alternatives, natural dyes—sometimes called biochromes—are making a comeback. Coffee, one of the most consumed drinks in the world, is not only part of daily life but also an abundant source of natural color. Every year, tons of used coffee grounds are thrown away, yet these leftovers can produce beautiful earthy tones when repurposed for dyeing. This makes coffee dyeing more than just a craft—it’s a way to reuse waste, protect the environment, and create art with meaning. Scientists have found that coffee contains compounds like tannins and polyphenols that allow it to bond with fabric and paper, giving lasting shades of brown. Beyond science, artists like Mutaz al-Fateh have shown how coffee can be used not just as a dye but as paint, mixing it with natural binders like gum arabic to create artworks that are deeply tied to local tradition. His work highlights the idea that ordinary, everyday materials can tell powerful cultural and environmental stories.

Image reference

Download reference

Links to reference files, PDF, booklets,¶

Mordanting Process¶

*Cardon, D. (2007). Natural Dyes: Sources, Tradition, Technology and Science. Archetype Publications.

*Maiwa School of Textiles. (2020). Mordanting for Natural Dyes: Alum, Iron, and Other Methods. Retrieved from https://maiwa.com

*Botanical Colors. (2021). How to Mordant Fabric for Natural Dyes. Retrieved from https://botanicalcolors.com

*The Modern Natural Dyer. (2015). Mordanting Fibers and Fabrics with Alum and Cream of Tartar. Abrams Books.

Coffee Dye¶

*Muthu, S. S. (2017). Textiles and Clothing Sustainability: Sustainable Textile Chemical Processes. Springer.

*De Assis, A. M., et al. (2019). “Eco-Friendly Natural Dyeing of Cotton Using Spent Coffee Grounds.” Journal of Natural Fibers, 16(8), 1180–1190.

*Al-Fateh, M. (2019). Exploring Identity Through Natural Pigments: Coffee, Henna, and Earth in Sudanese Textile Art. Khartoum: Al-Fateh Studio Publications. (Mutaz Al-Fateh uses coffee as a pigment to express memory, place, and tradition in Sudanese art, inspiring sustainable textile dyeing approaches.)

*Fabricademy Archive. (2023). Natural Dyeing Experiments – Coffee and Tea Dyes. Retrieved from https://textile-academy.org/projects/

*Maiwa School of Textiles. (2021). Using Food Waste for Natural Dyes: Coffee, Tea, and Onion Skins. Retrieved from https://maiwa.com

Cochineal Dye¶

*Cooksey, C. J. (2013). “Cochineal and Its Red Colorant.” Dyes in History and Archaeology, 30, 1–7.

*Cardon, D. (2007). Natural Dyes: Sources, Tradition, Technology and Science. Archetype Publications.

*Botanical Colors. (2022). Working with Cochineal: Extraction, Mordants, and pH Shifts. Retrieved from https://botanicalcolors.com

*Fabricademy Natural Dye Week. (2023). Cochineal Experiments and pH Color Shifts. Retrieved from https://textile-academy.org/class/2023/natural-dyeing

Tools¶

- Stainless steel pot or dyeing pan

- Wooden or stainless steel spoon (for stirring)

- Measuring cups and digital scale

- Strainer or cheesecloth (for filtering grounds)

- Glass jars or bowls (for soaking and storing dyes)

- Heat source (stove or hot plate)

- Gloves, apron, and protective workspace cover

- Mordanting pot or separate container for fabric pre-treatment

Process and workflow¶

Step 1: Mordanting the Fabric¶

Before applying any natural dye, the fabric must be mordanted. Mordanting helps the fabric fibers open up and better absorb the natural color, making it more vibrant and long-lasting.

What you need:

1 tablespoon alum (potassium aluminum sulfate) per 1 liter of water

Large stainless-steel or enamel pot

Clean cotton, silk, or wool fabric

Process:

Wash the fabric to remove any dirt, oils, or finishing chemicals.

Fill the pot with enough water to submerge the fabric completely.

Dissolve the alum into the water and stir well.

Add the clean, damp fabric and simmer gently for about 45–60 minutes.

Let the fabric cool in the solution, then rinse lightly and dry it in shade.

Mordanting strengthens the bond between the natural pigment (coffee) and the fiber, improving both the depth of color and its resistance to fading.

Step 2: Extracting the Coffee Dye¶

Brew a strong coffee solution or boil used coffee grounds in water for 20–30 minutes.

Strain the liquid through a cloth or sieve to remove solids.

For darker tones, extend boiling time or add more coffee grounds.

Step 3: Dyeing the Fabric¶

Place the mordanted fabric into the warm coffee dye bath.

Stir occasionally to ensure even coloring.

Let it soak for 30–60 minutes depending on how dark you want the shade.

Remove the fabric and rinse it gently until the water runs clear.

Dry it naturally away from direct sunlight to preserve color.

Step 4: Enhancing and Fixing the Color¶

To deepen the color or shift tones, you can add natural mordants directly to the dye bath:

Vinegar: produces a warmer, reddish tone.

Iron water (soaked rusty nails in vinegar): gives deeper, grayish-brown shades.

Salt: helps fix the dye and reduce fading.

You can also heat-set the dye by ironing the dry fabric at medium temperature.

Ingredients & Recipes¶

For Mordanting:¶

*Alum (Potassium aluminum sulfate) – 15% weight of fiber (WOF)

*Cream of tartar (optional) – 6% WOF (for softer fibers)

*Water – enough to submerge the fabric fully

For Dyeing:¶

*Ground coffee beans – approximately 100 g for every 100 g of fabric

*Cochineal powder – 10–15 g for every 100 g of fabric

*Water – enough to cover materials

*Fabrics used: - Cotton - Linen - Rabbit Wool

Documenting experiments¶

Mordating organic cotton

Al2(SO4)3+6KOH+2C6H8O7⟶2Al(C6H5O7)+3K2SO4+6H2O

ingredient used in mordant¶

Alum sulphate
Potassium hydroxide
citric acid monohydrate

TEST 01 - cotton¶

Material name	Fabric composition	Breathability	Moisture-wicking abilities	Heat retention abilities	Stretchability	Washing temperatures
cotton	vegetable fibers - cotton	Highly breathable	High	Low	Low	Cool or warm

RESULTS¶

Two ways of showcasing and comparing of the bath of mordating results with images below

On the left an image of a sample in the first bath On the right, an image of a sample after 30 min

RESULTS¶

First bath of coffee dye

Recycling the dye into pigments¶

Ingredients & Recipes¶

Prepare this recipe ¹ by collecting the ingredients necessary, to be found in the list below:

ingredients

xxx gr madder root
xxx gr alum
xxx gr fabric
xxx ml xxx
xxx gr xxx

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pink pigment¶

pigment from left-over dye bath

measure
add
simmer
mix
remove
strain
repeat

RESULTS¶

---¶

Recipes¶

recipe: banana indigo ↩