3. Circular fashion#
During the lesson of Zoe Romano there was talk of circular fashion and alternative systems for the creation of a garment. Our task is to devise and create an alternative pattern made of modular elements that connect to each other creating a modifiable structure by resizing or replacing some of these.
During the lesson I had in mind to develop two forms that I really liked the triangle and the flower.
Also some of the models shown and uploaded to open source circular fashion had impressed me a lot. I liked the light effect with part of the elements that create a three-dimensional volume like the taxalation bird form of Calara Davis; Like the module created by Carlos Herbozo the Wasitcoast Pattern in which one the elements are reinserted in some points within themselves creating in this case too also a three-dimensional vlume. Another really interesting module is that of Pauline Bianchi with Haeckel in which the fins are created through a pattern inside one of the elements with the purpose of using the internal “waste” as a decorative application of the same pattern.
My module starts from a flower extracted from a hexagon, until it develops an interweaving of rhombuses.
I reproduced this sketch in pencil using Inkscape. The flower that I extrapolated comes from a pentagonal shape while the hexagon from which I started and from which I have extrapolated the rhombuses, has become the main element of my modular pattern.
From here I started to develop the joints. The hexagon is transformed, playing with the rhombus shapes and I create the cuts through which to obtain the effects drawn in pencil in the initial sketch. To connect the new element and keep the desired cuts, I had to develop another element, a hexagon, that would be the glue for the main ones. In the middle photo you can already see the joints obtained. The tips of the main elements came in handy for connecting the first modular row with a second row below. the cuts inserted in the tip of the central element have been positioned so as to fit into the hexagon and then reinsert into itself acting as a hinge. The flower remains an external element of decoration that can be applied by inserting two petals at a time into one of the four holes inside the hexagon.
The main element seems to me like a diamond and i found the tiltle of my pattern:
FLOWER AND DIAMOND#
Once I got my modular pattern, I passed the basic pattern of a body created in Valentina. Once the measurements have been inserted, the pattern is created on which you can make eventual changes to cut your model. Then I extract the pieces you need, create the layout that I then exported to svg to work on inkscape.
The idea of the dress was not clear to me and I brought to inkscape the base without pinces.
Here the Valentina model is the oldest version with which I had already developed the basic body.
Once the model was imported, I copied the elements that compose my motif and I developed the idea of dress. In order not to have to make the whole dress with the modular pattern, I first created panels that could be connected on the sides with a simpler pattern. At the height of the bust I have created some bands that are fastened by making a knot, while on the lower part, starting from the waist, I have inserted mega pockets those are a piece of fabric that folds on itself and fits into the panels. the pockets are flared to give the flared effect to the dress.
Unfortunatly I do not have the time to check measurements and sizes.
The next step was to figure out where to place the form. At the height of the bust on the front there are the pinces and I placed the form above them.
For the pinces I created 3 mm holes every 1 cm to simulate a seam with a ribbon.
The guideline help me to create the right connection between the sheet and the module and the right height.
In the first image you can see the hook created. In order to connect the module to any cloths or to a different position, I modified the main element of the module so that the last row is flat and straight. To do this I eliminated the tips of the diamond. In this way the base of the diamond and the hexagon coincide.
In the second image is possible to see the paper pattern. In both parts, the modular pattern is used in the upper part of the bodice and at the shoulders’ attachment of the two clothes.
In the third image you can see the paper pattern of the pockets.
On Open Source Circular Fashion it’s possible to visit my whole project with picture and Inkscape files.
This is my project on Sketchfab with dxf files for lusercutter.
The fabrics used are different and are either part of the waste of old jobs or remnants of my stock.
the assembly phases are as follows …
1) Insert the tip of one diamond into a large hole in one hexagon and bring it up to the largest cuts. This will be “our diamond”. Fig.1 / 2
2) Bring the same point towards the cut at the base of the same diamond up to the smaller cuts in order to create a zipper. Fig.3
3) The diamonds are connected to each other on one side which is the one with the two shorter cuts. Then connect “our diamond” to another diamond but turned upside down to match the cuts that are the same. Fig.4
4) On the other side of “our diamond” there are two longer cuts that go inward of the same, and to connect it, it’s necessary to use another hexagon. In the shorter holes of the hexagon a diamond will be threaded on each side. So two of which one is the one we have already axed. Fig.5
5) In the center of each hexagon you can put a little flower. if inserted from the back of the fabric the petals will be visible on the straight as in Fig.6 / 7. If it is inserted from the front, the petals will remain hidden and the external effect will be that of a small button. It is nice to be able to play with the colors and the different types of weight of the fabrics.
I created the flower of a lighter fabric while the other elements in very resistant fabrics such as the heavy eco-leather. This also because the various cuts are very close to each other.