3. Circular and Open Source Fashion Week
Doing some resarch I re-found this awesome human being Issey Miyake and his studio. He developed - or mabey brought japanese ideas into the West World - the A-POC (a piece of cloth) concept. Also the concept of PLEATS PLEASE concept where cloth can be made by folding a piece of fabric and giving shape with heat. So the fabric keeps the form and is ready to wear.
For this week I decided to create a Pretty Seamless Garment trying to be the most zero waste as possible and using recycled fabric I found in the BCN Lab. You can download the file here
1. Which garment?
With the `zero waste concept´ in my head it should be a 1 piece fabric garment. So I thought in a coat kind of a Poncho and a seamless assemble to it.
So I didn´t want to use arrows but a modular shape and I found hearts. Now, the next step is to create the assemble.
2.Designing and testing the assemble
Designing the assemble method was a Puzzle for me. I had to create a cut line with minimum waste and also the assembles
had to modul when they were interlocked. I tried many ways. The reality was when I did what I thought it would work.. It didn´t.
First I tried drawing and make trials using paper. Then I drew on Rhinoceros and tried laser cut on paper. When I was sure of the assemble I tried on fabric.
Remember the locker side must be 4mm minimum wide and 9 mm minimum long side. Otherwise it would be so thin and it can be broken too easy.
3. Designing the garment pattern
Ok, my knowledge about pattern making is not the best. So I asked my colleagues about it and they helped me a lot. With them I did the neck measurements and the complete garment issues. To keep in mind, when the assembles are done the garment changes its size. So you have to add to the pattern size the same CM the assemble has. So when the garment is all assembled it keeps its real size. Do the same for the neck shape.
The fabric piece size is 700 mm x 105 mm and the material is a Scuba polyester with 2 mm thickness. The important thing is the fabric must be not so rough and not so thin. Should have some structure and at the same time should be soft to fall.
4. Laser cut and garment assemble instructions
What I used
- Scuba fabric with 2mm thickness
- Rhinoceros program
- Trotec Speedy 400 laser cut machine
- JobControl Software ( option Sweater and 60 for Power - 5.00 for Speed and 1000 PPI/HZ.)
The file is made in Rhinoceros. 1 piece garment with almost zero waste. In this case, the file size didn´t fit the laser cut machine bed (1000 mm x 600 mm) a Trotec Speedy 400. Now the file has 2 to separated pieces, front and back with more assembles. Like this:
The cut process started. For this fabric I used settings option Sweater and 60 for Power - 5.00 for Speed and 1000 PPI/HZ.
Once cut looks like this.
Take the waste off and put one cut above another.
To assemble: Roll the heart and instert it through the cut lines of the oposite piece. Do the same with all the garment sides.
Try it ON!!
You can download the file here
When I tried on the first time I decided to make a change because a piece of fabric didn't look nice. So the final file is this one.