In the quest for sustainable and eco-friendly alternatives, biochromes have emerged as a revolutionary solution in the textile industry. Biochromes, natural pigments derived from biological sources such as plants, algae, and microorganisms, offer a vibrant and diverse palette of colors. Unlike synthetic dyes, which often rely on harmful chemicals and extensive water usage, biochromes present a more environmentally friendly option. Their production and application processes are typically less polluting, reducing the ecological footprint of textile manufacturing. This essay explores the significance of biochromes, highlighting their environmental benefits and their potential to transform the textile industry into a more sustainable and aesthetically pleasing domain.
weekly assignment
Include some inspiration: research on artists or projects that on natural/bacterial dyeing, local ingedients and resources
Produce at least 1 natural dye with modifiers on fabric
Produce 1 ink OR 1 pigment
Document your recipes, the ingredients and process and if there have been changes, document your unexpected discoveries
Submit some of your swatches to the analog material library of your lab (20cm x 20cm approx)
get inspired!
Check out and research alumni pages to betetr understand how to document and get inspired
Oaxaca’s natural dyed textiles are a testament to the region’s rich cultural heritage and artistic ingenuity. These textiles, created using traditional methods passed down through generations, are dyed with natural pigments extracted from local plants, insects, and minerals. The result is a stunning array of colors that are both vibrant and harmonious, reflecting the natural beauty of Oaxaca’s landscapes. The use of natural dyes not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of these textiles but also underscores a commitment to sustainable and eco-friendly practices, making them a cherished and environmentally conscious choice for artisans and consumers alike.
Oaxaca Textiles (Photo Salvador Gonzalez & Suzanne Dekel)
We worked together on friday. First we cut the fabrics in 10 by 10 cm squares. We decided to use cotton fiber "manta" fabric for plant based fabric and woollen cloth for animal origin fiber fabrics. The video was uploaded by Raúl.
To cut this materials with laser I used the following parameters:
Max POWER: 35
Min POWER: 25
Work SPEED mm/s: 60
The first important data that we had was the Weight of Fiber (WOF). Its importance is that every calculation we made is based on this numbers.
WOF of 10 by 10 samples of cotton fabric is 1.6 gr¶
WOF of 10 by 10 cm samples whoolen cloth is 2.6 gr¶
The second step was the scouring of fibers with baking soda.
The materials
* 4 lt of water
* Sodium carbonate, at 2% of WOF
Recipe:
1. Weigh of fabric (WOF). Cotton, linen...
2. Heat the water in a pot.
3. Add 2% WOF of the carbonated soda to the water and stir.
4. Add the fibers (pre-cut shapes on the laser cutter).
5. It simmer for an hour.
6. Remove the fibers and wash them.
A mordant is a substance that helps dyes stick to fabrics or tissues. It works by forming a coordination complex with the dye, which then attaches to the fabric. Mordants can be applied before, during, or after dyeing wikipedia
Materials:
- Water: 4-5 l
- Alum: 15 % WOF for the cotton fabric
- Aluminium Sulfate for the wool cloth
Recipe:
1. Weigh of fabric(WOF). Cotton, linen...
2. Heat the water in a pot.
3. Add 15% WOF of alum to the water and stir.
4. It simmer for an 45 minutes.
5. Remove the fibers and wash them.
It was a very interesting practice; although I was familiar with the method, I had never done textile dyeing with natural pigments.
I loved searching for materials directly in nature and experimenting with them.
I discovered that it is an activity that, while very absorbing, can take a lot of time to achieve a specific result. Another thing I have learned throughout the Fabricademy and especially in this assignment is that things almost never turn out "perfect" as if it were manufacturing. Having worked in manufacturing for decades, it's something I still haven't gotten used to.
The results are much less consistent, but that fluidity adds beauty to the journey and to the outcome
