2. Digital bodies¶
goals of the week¶
- Research on artists or projects working with the human body.
- Document the process of acquiring a 3D model using a 3D scanner and software.
- Repaire and manipulate a 3D mesh and slice it.
- Create ready-to-cut files for laser cutting.
- Document workflow, fab lab processes, booking system, machine demos, tools, and safety rules.
- Built and assemble my mannequin and document it.
Projects of previous participants that I love:
research & ideation¶
- GEILER KAILA, body distortion.
- BRITT-INGRID PERSSON, deconstructed anatomy.
- BRUNO GIRONCOLI, incorporation of infant figures.
- BRUNO GIRONCOLI.
- CORNELIS VAN HAARLEM, "The Massacre of inocents", van Haarlem, 1590. When Herod, the King of Judea, learned that a child destined to become ‘King of the Jews’ would be born in Bethlehem, he ordered the slaughter of all boys under the age of two.
- ALI MAHDAVI , visceral distortion, fusion of human and infant forms.
Additional artworks/ artists that I found interesting:
The main focus of my project is "The Massacre of the Innocents" painting by Cornelis van Haarlem from 1590. I saw this painting at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, and it was etched in my mind. The narrative was shocking, and so realistic. The painting measures 245 cm × 358 cm. Is massive, and experiencing all its intricate details was truly fascinating.
Inspired by this, I was led to explore other artists who engage with the human body. I’m particularly interested in themes of distortion and dysmorphia, and I’m eager to experiment with these ideas during the program. After discovering additional references related to these themes, I started playing on MakeHuman and Rhino8 with some ideas.
Sketches of possible approaches for the project. I was fascinated by how I could incline one body part and balance it with another. I also wanted to experiment by scanning my feet, or using MakeHuman feet, and having them emerge from a wall or surface.
workflow¶
makehuman¶
- MakeHuman is an open-source software for creating customizable, realistic human 3D models. It allows users to adjust body proportions, facial features, and poses.
I found this software incredibly easy to use. It's quite intuitive, allowing you to adjust everything to your liking.
Initially, before I had a clear concept, rapidly I began experimenting with it because I was impelled by how Maison Margiela manipulated the human body, creating impossibly tiny waists to evoke an otherworldly atmosphere. However, achieving those extreme proportions in MakeHuman wasn’t as easy as I’d hoped, so I decided to take the model into Nomad Sculpt, a paid app I have on my iPad. I started using it earlier this year and absolutely love it. The app allowed for much better manipulation of the body, but in the end, I moved on from the idea as it wasn’t quite heading in the direction I wanted.
When I decided to incorporate infant figures into my model, I began by adjusting the age settings in MakeHuman and focused mainly on the legs, since that was the body part I wanted to work with. Afterward, I experimented with different poses to ensure I could easily cut the baby legs in Rhino8 later on.
Although I found this software quite user-friendly, I have a few tips to enhance your experience with it.
- Take your time to explore all the options so you can tweak the anatomy and face to match your vision perfectly.
- Don’t stress if you can’t get it exactly how you want it, you can always export it to Blender, Rhino8, or Nomad Sculpt to refine the textures and details.
- If you’re into distortion, dysmorphia or experimenting with proportions, play with the sliders as much as you can.
- Don't forget to save all versions of your work as you go.
3d scanning¶
- CrealityScan is a user-friendly 3D scanning software that works with Creality's scanners to capture real-world objects and convert them into digital 3D models. It features an intuitive interface, adjustable scan settings for optimized quality, and supports multiple file formats for easy export to other 3D modeling software.
Thanks to Henk for borrowing the scanner and Asli for guiding Issy and me, and scan us together. It was so much fun!
We began by setting the scene with green cloth covering the walls and floor to create a green screen effect for the scanner, minimizing any background interference. We also placed a small rotating table draped in green cloth for us to sit or lie on. It was a simple setup to make, and it was quite effective. Important note: If the green cloth on the table isn’t laid flat, the scanner will capture it.
In front of the setup, we had a table with all the laptops and the scanner. It was convenient to have Creality Scan installed on each laptop, allowing us to connect the scanner directly to our computers for optimization and saving. This also enabled us to plug the scanner into one laptop while another was optimizing a scan, minimizing downtime.
The scanning process was a lot of fun! Its essential to keep an eye on the computer screen while scanning. The areas that have been scanned appear green, and the software prompts you to move closer or farther away as needed. If you move too quickly to a different area, the software will alert you and stop scanning. To get back on track, you need to return to an area that has already been scanned. I found it particularly challenging to achieve a perfect scan of some hair details, and especially the top of the head.
Here are some tips for a better result:
- Make sure you setup your environment properly. A space with even lighting, and use a green screen or solid-colored background to minimize noise in the scan.
- Move slowly and steady. Be mindful of tricky areas.
- Use the optimization settings to reduce the file size by adjusting resolution and sensitivity.
- For the model, pick a comfortable position, since each scan takes around 10 minutes.
- For instance, if you're seated on something that rotates, you can rotate yourself horizontally while keeping the scanner on a stable surface. Alternatively, you can have someone operate the scanner, rotating it vertically around you.
- Highly reflective or transparent surfaces can be tricky to scan.
- Take the time to reduce unnecessary details and fixing any issues with the mesh.
- Ensure your laptop doesn’t go to sleep while the scan is optimizing. If it does, you lose the entire scan when you turn it on. Issy and I lost two scans in the process, it was incredibly frustrating.
Photos by Asli.
Here, you can see a glimpse of the software, after scanning. The optimization settings let you adjust the resolution and sensitivity, which are essential for reducing file size since these files can be quite large. If you want to upload a file to SketchFab, it’s important to keep it under the 100MB limit. Then there’s the mesh setting, it gives you control over the mesh quality.
This was our first attempt at scanning. While the nose and some areas of my face didn’t come out perfectly, the hair turned out great. I was also wearing a necklace with a silver shark on it, and we thought it wouldn’t scan well due to the reflective surface, but it actually turned out better than expected.
After losing two scans due to the computer falling asleep, we moved on to scanning my feet. I was lying on the floor with my feet propped up on a small table and my legs covered with a green cloth. It was a pretty exhausting position, and some noise appeared in the scan that we didn’t end up cleaning. Scanning the bottoms of my feet was tricky, but with Asli's help, we managed to get it done.
This was our last scan. Issy and I really wanted to try scanning our bodies together, and I love how it turned out, especially from the top view. Asli did the scanning, and of course, did an amazing job. The position was a bit tricky for our necks, but we were sitting, so no real complaints. I’d love to revisit this scan one day and do something with it!
rhino8¶
- Rhinoceros is a 3D modeling software widely used in industries like architecture, industrial design, jewelry, and product design. Known for its versatility, Rhino supports both NURBS (Non-Uniform Rational B-Splines) and mesh modeling. The software allows integration with other programs through Rhino.Inside technology and supports parametric design via Grasshopper.
This isn’t my first time using Rhino. Two years ago, during my Erasmus, I took a 3D printing class where Rhino was our main software. I really enjoy experimenting with 3D software, though it can get frustrating at times. Still, we made it through!
I found both Asli's and Anastasia's classes super helpful for refreshing my skills with the software. Even though I’ve used Rhino before, I’d never imported a 3D model to manipulate, it was always building something from scratch, and there are some important rules you must follow.
Some essential and super useful tools in Rhino are Copy, Move, Rotate, Mirror, and Scale. The software is quite intuitive and guides you step by step, ensuring you use each tool correctly.
Here’s a quick overview of the software layout: The command line at the top is where you type in all the commands and tools you want to use. Right below it, there’s quick access to commonly used tools, and at the top of the screen, you’ll find an additional toolbar. On the left side, you’ll see options that change depending on your task, these can be super helpful. There are four essential views: perspective, top, right, and front. I highly recommend switching between them depending on what you’re working on, they’re crucial. At the bottom of the screen, you’ll find important settings that need to be toggled on or off based on the task at hand.
On the print screen, I was experimenting with tools like Boolean Union, Difference, Intersection, and Split, along with the basics I mentioned earlier. It’s crucial when you bring a 3D model into Rhino to go to Mesh > Repair Tools > Fill All Holes, to ensure your mesh is fully closed. This step is key for avoiding issues later on!
Below, I’ll share some of the 3D models and manipulations I created in Rhino.
This is the 3D model inspired by Maison Margiela’s signature tiny waist figure that I mentioned earlier. However, I decided not to pursue this idea further in Rhino, as it didn’t resonate with what I had envisioned.
For this one, I began by importing the MakeHuman 3D body into Rhino and then split it to isolate just the neck and chest area. I experimented with the concept of adding baby legs, but the positioning didn’t quite feel right to me. In another approach, I tried cutting the body into sections, without making a full cut through the entire form, resembling stripes. I started by drawing a rectangle and extruding it into a parallelepiped, then adjusted the placement and used the Boolean Difference tool to achieve the desired effect. This is another idea I’d love to explore further in the future!
In this last 3D Model, I created the wall using the same method (making a rectangle and extruding it to form a parallelepiped). Then, I cut off the feet from the MakeHuman body I imported into Rhino. When selecting a pose in MakeHuman, I aimed for an asymmetrical look by positioning the feet differently, just like my own foot scan. After that, I placed the feet on the wall. I see a lot of potential in this idea and would love to make the wall less perfect and geometric, perhaps incorporating even more feet at various angles.
Now, I’ll walk you through the process I used to create my final model! Both the human head with an open mouth and the baby legs were sourced from MakeHuman. I began by importing them into Rhino and shaping them to fit my vision. For the head, I wanted to create an inclined angle to achieve an intriguing balance.
To slice the human body, start by creating a surface and ensure you're in the correct view. Position the surface where you want to make the cut. In my case, I rotated it slightly to achieve the desired incline. Then, use the Boolean Split tool: select the object (the body part) followed by the surface, press enter, and delete the unwanted body part along with the surface. I applied the same technique to the baby legs.
Once I had the body parts I wanted, I began positioning the baby legs inside the human mouth, utilizing tools like Move, Rotate, and Scale to get everything just right.
After that, I imported the 3D model into Nomad Sculpt, an app I really enjoy and feel confident using. This software allows me to manipulate the model easily, so I focused on adding more detail to both the human head and the legs. For the human head, I worked on defining the cheeks and the area around the eyes to enhance facial features for the final cardboard piece.
I also added some landforms extending from the head and face, and elongated the ears and nose, for a distorted effect. For the baby legs, I concentrated on refining the joints, knees, and ankles to ensure they would be more perceptible in the final piece.
After working in Nomad Sculpt, I imported the 3D model back into Rhino. With Asli's help, I was able to close the mouth. By creating an oval solid and positioned it inside the mouth, adjusting it to ensure it covered the entire area without any part of the solid appearing externally. She also noticed that I had some open meshes, which I had inadvertently created in Nomad Sculpt. To close them, you simply type PointsOn in the command line and manually intersect the points until everything is closed properly.
At this stage, I needed to determine how to keep the inclined head stable. Asli suggested creating a levitating effect by using two sticks anchored to a base. To create the necessary holes in the model, I began by making a cylinder and extruding it slightly beyond the halfway point of the head, ensuring it would be secure enough. Then, I made a Boolean Difference to create the holes.
Here are some tips for using Rhino8 software:
- Take some time to explore the interface. Get to know the command line, toolbars, and viewports.
- The command line is your best friend in Rhino. Always keep an eye on the feedback the software gives you.
- Ensure you're using millimeters as your unit of measurement.
- Remember to save your work often to avoid losing progress.
- There are many online resources that can help you learn new techniques and get tips from other users.
- Practice, practice, practice. The best way to get better at Rhino is through practice.
- You can create custom keyboard shortcuts for frequently used commands. Go to the Tools menu and select Options > Keyboard to set your shortcuts.
- If you're interested in parametric design, explore the Grasshopper integration.
- To isolate objects: Type Isolate into the command line and select object.
slicer for fusion 360¶
- Slicer for Fusion 360 is a plugin that streamlines the 3D printing process by allowing users to generate slicing instructions directly within Autodesk Fusion 360. It simplifies support generation for complex geometries and offers customizable slicing parameters like layer height and print speed. Although it added valuable functionality for designers and engineers in additive manufacturing, the software has been discontinued.
I absolutely loved this software, it's incredibly intuitive and well-designed.
- First, ensure your scale is set to millimeters. If you created the model in Rhino at its final size, select the Original Size option. If not, you can adjust the dimensions to the ones you need.
- Define your material by creating a new material profile. For example, since I used cardboard, I named it "cardboard", and input the material’s height, length, and thickness. Don’t forget to set a margin, I used 15mm both horizontally and vertically.
- Next, select the Construction Technique that best suits your project and explore the settings to achieve unique results. In my case, I used the Stacked Slices method. If necessary, add dowels for better assembly. You can adjust the number and placement of dowels as needed, which really simplifies putting everything together.
- Lastly, experiment with the Slice Direction. I aligned my slices with the direction of the head to achieve the effect I wanted.
Here
Ensure you know how many sheets of material you have and aim to nest your plans as efficiently as possible to minimize waste. I did my nesting in Rhino. First, export your file in .dxf format to your computer, then import each sheet into Rhino and rotate them horizontally for proper orientation.
- Explode all the curves, then write in your command line Sel. Dup. and Delete all the duplicates, afterward, Join them back together. Once that’s done, you can begin nesting. Pay attention to maintaining the correct margins to ensure a proper fit and efficient use of your material.
For the final sheet, I included the circles for the sculpture’s base. I created two circles, each with a diameter of 20 cm, and then made six additional circles with holes, gradually decreasing the diameter by 1 cm for each subsequent circle. This helped create a stable and layered base for the sculpture.
Note: I noticed some unnecessary lines in specific areas of the plan, likely created when I generated the slices in Slice for Fusion 360 due to imperfections in the model. These extra lines would have interfered with the laser cutting process, so I carefully deleted them one by one in Rhino before exporting the final document, to ensure a clean, precise cut.
laser cutter¶
- A Laser Cutter is a precision tool that uses a high-powered laser to cut or engrave various materials. It allows for intricate designs and fast production, commonly used in industries like manufacturing and fashion design. Laser cutting is a sustainable tool because it minimizes material waste and can efficiently use renewable materials, reducing the environmental impact. Is operated via CAD software and requires safety precautions during use.
This was my first time using a laser cutter, and there are quite a few important rules to ensure both proper use of the machine and safety. Asli provided us with detailed instructions, and below, I've outlined the essential steps to follow before, during, and after the laser cutting process.
- Make sure you know where the recycling station is located in your fablab.
- While the machine is cutting never leave the red rectangle or your eyes off the machine to avoid any risks.
- Confirm that a water spray is nearby before cutting, in case a fire starts.
- Turn on the computer located under the machine and connect your USB drive.
- We’re using LightBurn software, which is a vector-based program. You can make final edits to your design before starting cutting.
- Always delete duplicates by navigating to Edit > Delete Duplicates. This ensures the machine doesn’t cut the same area twice.
- Remember to close all shapes. Select everything and go to Edit > Auto-Join Selected Shapes. This minimizes cutting time and improves precision.
- Turn on the machine, wait for the "Please wait..." message on the control panel, then click the reset button next to the power button.
- Turn on the ventilation system to extract any fumes.
- Ensure the material lies flat on the material bed. Use tape or weights if necessary to secure it. Don’t forget to run the Frame Test to confirm that weights are out of the way.
- Place your material away from the edge of the material bed and align it with the pre-existing lines.
- Do tests before starting your project.
- Manually adjust the machine to match the thickness of your material using the provided gauge, following the procedure shown in this instructional video.
- Ensure you do the engraving before cutting. If you cut first, the pieces might become loose, making the engraving less precise.
- The machine will stop when you open it. However, if you need to open it mid-cut, click "pause" on the computer first. In case of an emergency, you have a big red emergency button right next to the control panel.
- After cutting finishes, wait a few minutes before opening the machine.
Here is a more detailed explanation of the rules and how to properly use the laser cutter, provided by Waag FabLab Amsterdam. It covers essential guidelines for safe operation, material setup, and optimizing your cutting process to ensure both the machine's efficiency and your safety.
Here 1 you have my final 3D Model for the project (Free Download).
Below, you have the step-by-step of my laser cutting process.
I began by ensuring all necessary things were within reach. First, I plugged my USB drive into the computer and opened the file in LightBurn. I checked for any duplicates and joined all the shapes to prepare for cutting. Before proceeding, I made sure to review the design carefully for any last-minute adjustments or mistakes.
Here 2 you have my final Laser Cut File for the project (Free Download).
For the engraving settings, I used the following parameters:
Speed (mm/sec): 150.00
Max Power (%): 15.00
Min Power (%): 12.00
Remember to keep the Number of Passes set to 1, depending on the thickness of your material.
For the cutting settings, I adjusted the parameters to
Speed (mm/sec): 45.00
Max Power (%): 35.00
Min Power (%): 20.00
After turning on the machine following the earlier mentioned steps, I knew that Issy had already cut her pieces, so I didn’t needed to conduct a Test cut this time. However, in the future, I would always make sure I run a Test cut to ensure that settings are accurate for the material.
I laid the material flat on the material bed, and aligned with the pre-existing lines. I then adjusted the machine to match the thickness of my material using the provided gauge, like the video below. To ensure the cardboard was level, I secured it with weights and tape, making sure it was flat and stable.
I performed the Frame Test to confirm that nothing obstructed the cutting path. Before starting, I made sure that the ventilation system was turned on to extract any fumes generated during cutting.
Once everything was set, I pressed Start to begin the process, keeping a close eye on the machine as it operated. After the cutting was completed, I waited a few moments before opening the machine. Finally, I carefully removed the cut pieces and continued with the next sheets.
Out of pure curiosity, if you would like to know how much time each sheet took to laser cut.
1st >23min / 2nd >20min / 3rd >13min / 4th >5min
Tips for Laser Cutting?
- Patience...
Quick bio break to eat pancakes on Issy's birthday, while the laser cutter is running! Photo by Asli.
assembly¶
The assembly process was really enjoyable for me. It took a few hours to put everything together, with some bio breaks in between, but I'm absolutely thrilled with the outcome.
I started by organizing all my pieces in numerical order. With 96 pieces in total, including some tiny ones, I grouped them into sets of 10, and for the smallest pieces, I kept them in small clusters so they’d be easy to find later (Image 1 & 2). Then, I opened Slicer for Fusion 360 to follow the assembly steps. Watching each step closely was especially important in the beginning, as I started with the baby legs, which were two separate parts, and the head, which was also an individual part.
During this process, I had a podcast on, so it wasn't an overly focused task, but I was still careful. I actually find this kind of work really relaxing. Make sure you have plenty of glue on hand. I started with UHU glue, but halfway through the head, I had to get more and switched to Tacky Glue by Cre-Ation (Image 3). Both worked well, and Asli also advised us to not use glue sticks.
Asli gave me a wooden stick to help make my model levitate. I ended up cutting it at home with a knife, which I wouldn’t necessarily recommend, but it was quick and effective! The stick was originally 50cm long. I measured the halfway point, marked it with a pen, and made a few light cuts with a saw knife before snapping it in half by hand. I repeated the process, ending up with two 12.5cm sticks.
tools¶
outcome¶
I’m really satisfied with how my project turned out. At first, I was worried the piece wouldn't capture the level of detail I had in mind, but in the end, gluing 96 pieces of cardboard was completely worth it!
The piece perfectly conveys everything I wanted. You can clearly see that are baby legs emerging from the mouth, and I was able to distort the head just enough without losing its human form. Initially, I was also unsure about using cardboard, thinking it might not do the sculpture justice. However, I ended up loving the texture, the light when appears through the cardboard layers, and how the landforms and exaggerated facial features create interesting shadows and light effects to play with.
fabrication files¶
All the 3D models are available for download. You can click on each one above and navigate to Sketchfab. Below, I’ll share the final 3D Model and Laser Cut File of my project.
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File: 3d Modelling of Human Head ↩
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File: Laser Cut File ↩