7. Textile as Scaffold#

This week has been amazing! We focused on two different topic: crystallization and molding.

Inspiration#

inspiration

I got inspired by Damien Hirst’s exibition “Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable”. I wanted to create a mold for a bag as if the mold would had been shaped by being in the see for many years. On the other hand I wanted something very simple and basic shaped as the bags by Benedetta Bruzziches

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Un post condiviso da Benedetta Bruzziches (@benedettabruzziches) in data:

Crystallization#

cristall

cristt

cris Crystallization is a method for transforming a solution into a solid, where a supersaturated solution nucleates the solute by a chemical equilibrium controlled process.A crystal or crystalline solid is a solid material whose constituents (such as atoms, molecules, or ions) are arranged in a highly ordered microscopic structure, forming a crystal lattice that extends in all directions.In addition, macroscopic single crystals are usually identifiable by their geometrical shape, consisting of flat faces with specific, characteristic orientations.

It’s possible to create different kind of crystalls from different recepies, we tryed with epson salt and allum.

Cecilia suggest us to use no recepies and just continue adding epson salt/allum until the solution (water+mineral) is saturated (it means the solution is containing the maximum concentration of a solute dissolved in the solvent. ​The additional solute will not dissolve in a saturated solution.). Is it possible to add color(the one the works best are food color)to the solution to create colorated crystal.

Since the crystallization will start as soon as the solution will be cooler, immerge the textile or the thread while the solution it’s still hot; different solution have different time of crystallization.

Textile scaffold#

We consider a composite to be a material consisting of two or more distinct phases, bonded together. One of the assigments of the week was creating a textile composite. It was possible to use Bioplastics or Epoxy(a textile hardener) and every textile we wanted. It was possible to use the laser cutter, 3D printer, CNC milling or make molding’s container manually.The milling machine, like laser cut, is a subtractive machine, otherwise the 3d printer which is of additive type. Since I’m pretty confindent wiht the laser cut I’ve choosen to use the CNC Millign Machine.

CNC Milling Machine#

Milling is the machining process of using rotary cutters to remove material from a workpiece. Computer numerical controlled milling machine are called CNC Machine. The cutter in a milling machine is able to move along multiple axes: X and Y designate horizontal movement of the work-piece (forward-and-back and side-to-side on a flat plane), Z represents vertical, or up-and-down movement and can create a variety of shapes, slots and holes.

Step by Step Manual for the Milling Machine @ Waag#

Teresa has made a wonderful documentation that has been my manual reference when I milled. * Working area: 2440 x 1220mm | 96” x 48” * Maximum Part Size: 2440 x 1220 x 150mm * Software used: Partworks 2D & 3D * Acceptable file formats: DXF, STL * You can cut and carve: wood, plastic, styrofoam and many more * You can not cut: metal

The Software(part one): Partworks 2D/3D#

The Hardware#

Warnings#

Roughing tool path#

Finishing Tool path#





Once you have your molding you can start casting.

Casting#

Wooden Textile#



texture

I decided to try to different pattern. Here’s shown the construction of both.

How to create your “wood textile”: 1. Prepare your pattern on illustrator; 2. Follow the instruction for the laser cut (You can follow the instruction on the documentation of week2: Digital Bodies in the paragraph “Laser cut instruction. From Slicer 360 to the laser cut” ); 3. Fix the piece of material on witch the pattern will be cutted (I wanted to try to create my wood textile with something softer. So I cut my pattern on the felt Speed:200 Power:30.); 4. Find the perfect speed and power for cutting your material; 5. Launch the cut; 6. Wait until the cut will be finished, than don’t move anything from the lasercut’s grid;

Now you’ll start to transfer the pattern to the other textile:

  1. Take a transfer tape(the one for the laser cut!) and put it on the patter you cutted.
  2. Now you’ll have your patter on the tape you can remove the “frame”(the negative of your pattern = what you don’t need);
  3. Take non repositionable spray glue/white glue and spray/paint it on the pattern you have on the tape;
  4. Put your softer fabric on the glued pattern;
  5. Put it under a press;
  6. Your “wood textile” now it’s ready!!!

    wooden

    The finish product | The finish product + the negative | Pattern’s negative

Fish skin#

Prepare the fish leather is actualy very easy and it doesn’t need many ingredients.

instruction

Instruction:

  1. Remove all residual pulp from the skin;
  2. Remove the scales(it’s needed for the glycerine to penetrate the skin);
  3. Wash the skins;
  4. Take some jars;
  5. Insert 2/3 fish skins into the jar;
  6. Make a solution 50% glycerin / 50% alcohol 96%;
  7. The solution must be placed in the jar;
  8. Fish skin + solution must fill 50% of the volume of the jar;
  9. If you want you can add natural dyes or food dyes;

    Now it’s time to:
  10. gifff
  11. Shake!
  12. gif
  13. Shake! Shake!
  14. giff
  15. Shake! Shake! Shake!

  16. The jars must be shaken for 5 minutes each every hour for 3 days;

  17. After 3 days remove the skins from the jars. Squeeze them from the solution and put them dry on a flat surface;
  18. After a few days you’ll see the skins wont’ be wet anymore!
  19. Skin has become leather!!!
  20. If the leather is too hard you have to breake the fibers of the leather otherwise it’ll too hard;
  21. Now the leather is ready to become whatever you want!

    fishy

    fish

Jellifish leather

More about bio material & bio dyeing

Love, share, download the file here!#

Click here to download the bag mold file!

Click here to download the wooden textile file!

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@fabricademy @textilelabamsterdam #fabricademy2018 #fabricademy #textilelab #textilelabamsterdam #research #materialresearch #newmaterialresearchlaboratory #newtecnique #newtextiles #creatingtextiles #texture #naturaltexure #inspiredbynature_ #inspiredbynature #scienceiscool #makersmovement #makersgonnamake #textiledesign #textileart #textileresearch #textileexperiments #fashionconscious #consciousfashion #sustainablefashion #sustainableliving #sustainabledesign #alternative #alternativeleather #leatheralternative #alternativeleather #alternativeliving

Un post condiviso da Irene Caretti (@ieayeahieayeah) in data:

Epilogue: not a bag but a hat!#

hat

On the left: jocking with Stephanie | On the right: the final result

While I was jocking with Stephanie I tought that half of my bag seemed like a Billbox hat. After joined the contest “Digital Made. For Young Fashion Talents” I choose to follow this intuition and to create a hat.

Using the hot glue I add an hair clip like this one inside. Then I glued some modules form the Circular fashion assigment on the top and some organza on the edges.

outfit