6. Computational Couture¶
Research & Ideation¶
The intersection of parametric design and 3D printing is revolutionizing the textile industry, pushing the boundaries of what is possible in fabric creation and design. Parametric design, a process that uses algorithmic thinking to manipulate design parameters, allows for the creation of complex, customizable patterns and structures that were previously unattainable with traditional methods. This approach enables designers to explore a vast array of possibilities, from intricate geometries to adaptive and responsive textiles.
3D printing, or additive manufacturing, complements parametric design by providing a means to materialize these complex designs with precision and efficiency. In the realm of textiles, 3D printing offers the ability to create fabrics with unique properties, such as enhanced flexibility, strength, and aesthetic appeal. This technology allows for the production of seamless garments, intricate lacework, and even smart textiles that can respond to environmental stimuli.
Together, parametric design and 3D printing are paving the way for innovative applications in fashion, interior design, and technical textiles. They enable the creation of bespoke garments tailored to individual body shapes, sustainable production methods that reduce waste, and the integration of advanced functionalities into everyday fabrics. As these technologies continue to evolve, they promise to transform the textile industry, offering new levels of creativity, customization, and sustainability.
weekly assignment
- Document the concept, sketches, references also to artistic or scientific articles on 3D printing and parametric modeling
- Design a parametric model using Grasshopper3D (or alternative parametric software) and upload the 3Ddesign file + required parametric files
- Learn how to use a 3D printer and document the step-by-step process and settings
- Document the workflow for exporting your file and preparing the machine, Gcode and settings to be 3D printed
- Print your file and document the outcomes
- Upload your stl file
- Submit some of your swatches to the analog material library of your lab. Size 20cm x 20cm approx (extra credit)
get inspired!
Check out and research alumni pages to betetr understand how to document and get inspired
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Dual filament 3d print research - Stephanie Johnson - TextileLab Amsterdam
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3d print on fabric - Zahia Albakri - CPF Makerspace
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3d print on fabric - Dinesh Kumar - FabLab
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Visaulisations & Ideation - Dinesh Kumar - FabLab Bcn
References & Inspiration¶
My first inspiration is the work of MARC FORNES, Architect , leads THEVERYMANY , a New York-based studio specializing in large-scale, site-specific structures that unify skin, support, form, and experience into a single system. Over the last ten years, Marc has designed and built a number of organic, thin-shell constructions that push the limits of form, structure, and space. This body of work is situated between the fields of art and architecture, with particular focus in the realm of public art. Each public artwork aims to provide a unique spatial experience for its visitors, while also contributing to the visual identity of a place and catalyzing community engagement.
This practice is propelled by Marc’s expertise in computational design. THEVERYMANY represents a body of research that continues to advance new parametric outcomes and implement complex techniques in architecture and beyond. Each project evolves previous inquiries, and further investigates design though codes and computational protocols, addressing new ways to describe complex curvilinear self-supported surfaces into series of flat elements for efficient fabrication.
I also love the work of Félix Candela, a renowned Mexican architect and engineer, is celebrated for his pioneering work with reinforced concrete, particularly his innovative use of thin-shell structures known as “cascarones.” Born in Spain in 1910, Candela moved to Mexico in 1939, where he left an indelible mark on the architectural landscape.
Candela’s designs are characterized by their elegant, efficient, and economical use of materials. His mastery of the hyperbolic paraboloid—a complex geometric form—allowed him to create structures that were both visually stunning and structurally sound. This approach not only minimized material usage but also resulted in buildings with remarkable aesthetic and functional qualities.
One of his most iconic works is the Pavilion of Cosmic Rays at the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM), completed in 1951. This structure exemplifies his ability to blend form and function, using a thin concrete shell to create a space that is both light and strong. Another notable project is the Los Manantiales Restaurant in Xochimilco, built in 1958, which features a striking flower-like roof made of hyperbolic paraboloids.
Candela’s work on the Palace of Sports for the 1968 Olympic Games in Mexico City further cemented his reputation as a master of concrete shell design. The building’s dome, composed of intersecting hyperbolic paraboloids, showcases his innovative approach to large-span structures.
Throughout his career, Candela’s designs were guided by principles of economy, simplicity, and flexibility. His contributions to architecture and engineering continue to inspire and influence contemporary architects and engineers around the world.
Zaha Hadid renowed design company made with the Modern art museum in mexico an homage to falix candela, bulding a pavillion by knitting the structure in a beautiful piece.
- Knit Candela By Zaha Hadid design
Finally I love the work of the former Fabricademy student Dinesh Kumar - FabLab Bcn I find his work 3D printing on fabric amazing.
Aditional inspiration¶
I also worked with different promts to create images of a parametric brazalet, inspired in different art tendencies lik art nuveau, Art Decó, Cubism, etc.
The prompt was: crea un video corto donde un brazalete de aspecto organico creado con técnicas de diseño paraametrico va cambiando su forma serpenteando en el brazo de una modelo. Then I added: Haz que el brazalete sea parte del final de la manga de un vestido y abarque de la mitad del dorso de la mano hasta la mitad del antebrazo
After the first try I was more specific with the prompt: Un brazalete de aspecto orgánico creado con técnicas de diseño paramétrico cambiando su forma serpenteando en el brazo de una modelo, que sea parte del final de la manga de un vestido y abarque de la mitad del dorso de la mano hasta la mitad del antebrazo, dale al brazalete un aspecto paramétrico pero con inspiración del art nuveau
This are some images of what I got with the prompt.
The images I liked the most, and I will develop further are:
3D Printing Techonology¶
3D printing, also known as additive manufacturing, is like having a mini factory on your desk. Imagine drawing something on your computer, and then, instead of printing it on paper, you bring it to life in three dimensions. It stacks layers of material, usually plastic, but sometimes metal or even chocolate, one on top of the other until you've got a physical object. You can create almost anything, from toys and tools to complex parts for machines or even prosthetic limbs. It's a game-changer because it allows for custom, on-demand production without needing a whole assembly line. Just design, print, and voilà!
Here are the main 3d printing technologies
- Stereolithography (SLA): This is like using a magic light wand to solidify liquid plastic into cool shapes. A UV laser zaps the liquid resin in a tank layer by layer until your object is fully formed. It’s great for detailed models and smooth finishes.
- Selective Laser Sintering (SLS): Imagine spraying a thin layer of powder and then hitting it with a laser to fuse it into a solid piece. That’s SLS. It builds stuff by melting powder together layer by layer. No need for support structures, so you can get really complex.
- Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM): This one’s like a hot glue gun on steroids. It heats up plastic filaments and squirts them out to layer up and make your object. It’s the most common type, super versatile, and great for prototyping and functional parts.
- Digital Light Process (DLP): DLP is similar to SLA but uses a digital light projector to flash a single image of each layer all at once. It’s faster because it cures whole layers instead of drawing them out with a laser.
- Multi Jet Fusion (MJF): MJF spreads out a layer of powder and then sprays it with a binding agent that’s activated by an infrared light. It allows for super fine details and strong parts, perfect for both prototypes and final products.
- PolyJet: This technology is like a high-quality inkjet printer but for 3D printing. It sprays tiny droplets of a photopolymer that are instantly cured by UV light. You can get crazy detail and even mix different materials for varied properties and colors in a single print.
- Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS): DMLS is the metalhead cousin of SLS. It uses metal powder and a laser to build metal parts layer by layer. It’s perfect for high-strength, complex parts and prototypes without the need for molds.
- Electron Beam Melting (EBM): EBM uses—you guessed it—an electron beam to melt metal powder together, layer by layer, in a high-vacuum environment. It’s great for making durable and stress-resistant parts, especially in aerospace and medical industries.
- Each of these technologies brings its own set of superpowers to the table, making 3D printing a versatile and exciting field. However in FabLab Puebla we have access mostly to only two of these technologies, DLP, MSLA.
You can investigate more about 3D Printing at Fab Lab Puebla's Fabacademy webpage. There you will find the machines that we have in the lab and all the printer´s settings for the different materials
Tools¶
Process and workflow¶
I experimented several processes.
Internal metal frame¶
First I wanted to know if it was possible to use an internal metal frame in a TPU 3D printed part. The idea is that something printed does not has to have the same shape always. With this tecnique it is possible to change the geometry of the piece at any time.
The first thing I made in Solidworks was the frame where I included an internal orifice to insert a metal wire.
Then in blender I made a plane and with geometry nodes I put instances on points. The instance is a flower I got in thingiverse
It did not work for several reasons. The main is that the rose petals were to thin to be printed, so it was imposible for the printer.
On the second try I decided to make a simple form to prove the concept so I designed in solidworks a ring with the metal wire inside:
Then I printed the piece in TPU
In the printer
Finally the ring ended well printed and with the capability to morph
It can recover its original form.
Then I went shopping!¶
I bought organza, tul and mesh to experiment with the 3D printer, those are very cheap fabrics and can be used with the 3d printer
Blender geometry nodes Skull printing¶
I wanted to experiment with black tul and some skulls for Halloween to add it to some garment. I used Blender Geometry nodes. Add a plane and inserted a skull that I downloaded from thingiverse, I cutted it and added a hole in the back to add a led light. Then with the instances on point node I added skulls in every point, Finally I added a random node to change the size of the skulls. You can see de process in the video.
In the printer¶
Finally I wanted to experiment around the Dinesh Kumar - FabLab Bcn technique so I decided to use a fabric called Mesh in Mexico, it is like tulle but it has elastic properties. son I made a two fabric sandwich, in the bottom I used mesh and streched the fabric, so in theory the moment I release it it will contract creating a wrinkled form on the upper organza fabric.
Printing:
As you can see I made a mistake, I left one of the holding clips whith the holding part and it collided with the printer, so the printer lost the zero position and moved the print some milimiters as you can see in the image.
You can see in the next pictures part of the effect I wanted to achive.
I will continue experimenting with this technique, I also need to make the printed TPU thinner actually it has 2 mm thik and 2mm tall, It is too tall also and makes it too stiff for the efect I pursue with the mesh and the organza.