7. BioFabricating Materials¶

🌿 Previous Experiments¶

Before joining Fabricademy, I took Speculative Biophilia with Fabricademy alumna Catherine Euale at the School of Machines, and later attended the Fabricademy Bootcamp. I also joined a Root Patterning Workshop at the MIT Museum — experiences that helped me feel mentally prepared for this week’s assignment and gave me a sense of what to expect.

From these early explorations, I’ve learned a few lessons that continue to shape how I approach biofabrication:
1. We can only control the process so much — nature always has its own rhythm.
2. Patience is key; rushing only breaks the relationship between material and maker.
3. Everything affects everything — drying time, formula, environment, ingredients, and even the smallest variations in handling.

What still perplexes me is the paradox at the heart of biomaterial practice: although the goal is sustainability, we often create waste along the way. For instance, growing mycelium leather requires sterilization, plastic containers, and other resources that complicate the idea of “eco-friendly.”

Still, after working with bioplastics (gelatin, alginate, and agar), alginate biocomposites, mycelium composites and leather, and grassroot patterning, I wanted to take these experiments further — to explore how they could become more mindful, efficient, regenerative, and forward-thinking. I began asking not just how to make these materials, but how to make them better — both sustainably and creatively.

Working in the restaurant industry alongside my creative practice has also shifted how I see material waste. Every day, I witness how much food is discarded in commercial kitchens — ingredients with stories, colors, and chemistry still alive in them. This week, I decided to give those materials a second life, letting coffee grounds and fish skins reappear as pigments, binders, and living agents in new kinds of biofabrication.

🍄 Grown Material — Mycelium¶

Mycelium Biofabrication & Growth Manipulation¶

This idea came from the Fabricademy Bootcamp in Brussels (Summer 2025) — a group on Mycelium led by Annah-Ololade Sangosanya, whose concept we didn’t have time to explore. I decided to revisit it this week and see how mycelium behaves when I start interacting with its growth.

Concept¶

I see this experiment as a small dialogue between life and design — between what I can guide and what I have to let happen. Mycelium grows like intuition; it senses boundaries, feeds where it can, and retreats where it can’t. By painting and shaping its food, I wanted to see how far I could collaborate with it, rather than control it.

🎯 Goals¶

Grow mycelium material and observe how different natural agents affect its behavior. This week, I focused on keeping the scope simple but meaningful — exploring contrast between growth vs. inhibition, and structure vs. nutrient density.

🧰 Tools¶

Mixing bowl (non-metallic)
Spoon or spatula
Plastic containers or molds (2–3 cm thick)
Breathable plastic wrap or lid with holes
Spray bottle (for misting water)
Paper towels or cloth for lining
Gloves and alcohol spray for cleaning
Labeling tape or markers

🧂 Materials – Natural Agents Study¶

This experiment investigates how natural household agents influence mycelium growth patterns when applied locally on a fully colonized substrate.

Ingredient	Role	Notes
Oyster Mushroom Mycelium – Ready-to-Grow Grain/Substrate Mix (5 lb)	Base living system	Pre-inoculated oak + soy hull (Masters Mix)
Vinegar	Growth inhibitor	Acidic; lowers pH and suppresses hyphal spread
Honey	Growth promoter	Simple sugars; encourages dense, fuzzy growth
Sugar	Mild promoter	Slower, more diffuse energy source than honey
Nutritional Yeast	Nutrient signal	Adds nitrogen + B-vitamins; may thicken growth
Molasses	Strong promoter	High mineral + sugar content; often causes dark, aggressive growth
Salt	Growth inhibitor	Osmotic stress; halts or severely restricts growth
Clean water	Dilution & moisture	Used to dilute agents and maintain humidity
Baking paper / gloves / alcohol	Hygiene	Prevent contamination during handling

💫 Step-by-Step Instructions¶

1️⃣ Incubate the Base Bag (2–3 Weeks)¶

Injecting Liquid Culture
Keep the sealed mycelium bag in a dark, warm space (22–26 °C)
Wait until the substrate becomes fully white and firm
This ensures an evenly colonized, responsive base for testing

Injecting Liquid Culture

Incubation Setup. I placed the mycelium incubation bag inside a covered box with small openings for airflow, attempting to create a dark, warm, and more controlled environment for growth.

2️⃣ Prepare a Single Substrate Field¶

Break the colonized substrate gently into chunks
Mix lightly and press into molds or trays
Target thickness: 2–3 cm
Avoid compressing the mycelium

3️⃣ Mold and Label¶

Line molds with baking paper
Prepare one tile per natural agent
Label clearly:
Vinegar
Honey
Sugar
Nutritional Yeast
Molasses
Salt

4️⃣ Apply Natural Agents (Surface Intervention)¶

Agent	Role	Application	Expected Reaction
Vinegar	Inhibitor	Light brush or drops	Bleached zones, halted growth
Honey	Promoter	Dilute 1:3 with water, small drops	Dense, glossy, fuzzy growth
Sugar	Promoter	Dilute 1:3, light application	Subtle expansion, softer texture
Nutritional Yeast	Nutrient signal	Sprinkle dry or dissolve lightly	Thicker, uneven growth clusters
Molasses	Strong promoter	Dilute 1:5, minimal drops	Darkened, aggressive growth
Salt	Inhibitor	Sprinkle sparingly	Sharp boundaries, growth arrest

5️⃣ Incubate and Observe¶

Cover molds with breathable wrap or perforated lids
Incubate in dark, warm conditions (22–26 °C) for 7–10 days
Mist lightly only if surface dries
Document daily:
Growth density
Color
Texture
Boundary sharpness
Smell

6️⃣ Dry and Preserve¶

Once growth stabilizes (≈ Day 7–10):
Remove samples from molds
Dry at 60–80 °C for 2–4 hours or air-dry for several days
Ensure fully dry before storage

🧪 Experimental Matrix – Natural Agent Signals¶

Sample	Agent	Type
01	Vinegar	Inhibitor
02	Honey	Promoter
03	Sugar	Promoter
04	Nutritional Yeast	Nutrient signal
05	Molasses	Strong promoter
06	Salt	Inhibitor

✨ Result¶

After approximately two months of incubation, there was no visible mycelium growth observed from the incubation bag. The image below represents a visualization of the intended outcome rather than an achieved result. I plan to regrow the mycelium and continue this experimentation in future iterations.

Natural Agent Study: Mycelium Growth. Concept Image by Pattaraporn “Porpla” Kittisapkajon

Crafted Material — Kombucha Leather (Learning to Grow)¶

🎯 Goal To learn how to grow and work with kombucha as a living material.
This experiment focuses on cultivating bacterial cellulose (SCOBY leather) through fermentation — observing how growth, thickness, and texture respond to environment and time.

The goal is not perfection, but to understand:
1. 🧫 How kombucha grows
2. 🌡️ How temperature, sugar, and surface area affect thickness
3. 💧 How to harvest and dry a sheet suitable for future bio-design experiments

🧰 Tool¶

Wide 120 oz (3.5 L) glass container (≈ 13 × 9 × 2.5 in)
Breathable fabric or paper towel
Rubber band
Measuring cups & spoon
Kettle or pot
Thermometer (optional)
Scale (grams preferred)
Drying surface (parchment or clean cotton cloth)
Glycerin (optional for finishing)

🧂 Materials & Ingredients¶

Ingredient	Purpose	Notes
Water	Base liquid	Filtered or dechlorinated for best results
Black or green tea	Nutrient source	2–3 tea bags
Sugar	Food for bacteria	200 g
Apple cider vinegar (with “mother”)	pH adjustment & protection	200 ml
Starter liquid (plain kombucha)	Inoculation	450 ml
SCOBY	Culture	1 piece, covering surface
Glycerin (optional)	Plasticizer	For post-treatment softness

⚗️ Recipe & Process¶

1️⃣ Brew the Sweet Tea - Boil 2 L of water. - Steep 3–4 tea bags for 10 minutes. - Remove tea bags and dissolve 200 g sugar while still warm. - Let cool completely to room temperature (below 30°C / 86°F).

2️⃣ Prepare the Fermentation Base - Add 200 ml apple cider vinegar and 450 ml starter kombucha to the cooled tea. - Pour into the glass container, filling up to about 1 inch below the rim. - Gently place one SCOBY on the surface.

3️⃣ Ferment - Cover with breathable fabric and secure with a rubber band. - Keep in a warm (25–30°C / 77–86°F) area with good air flow, away from direct sun. - Do not disturb — the SCOBY grows across the surface. - Optionally feed around day 10 and day 20 with 2 Tbsp sugar dissolved in ½ cup cooled tea.

4️⃣ Harvest (After ~5–6 weeks) - When the new cellulose layer reaches 12–18 mm wet thickness, gently remove it. - Rinse with clean water to remove tea residue. - Flatten on parchment or cotton cloth to dry at room temperature.

5️⃣ Drying & Finishing - Allow to air dry completely (1–3 days depending on humidity). - Expect ~3–5 mm (⅛–¼ in) dry thickness after shrinkage. - Optional: brush or soak in 5–10% glycerin solution for flexibility. - Press flat between sheets or under light weight.

✨ Observations¶¶

| Stage | Day | Note

🌱 Grown Material — Root Patterning (3D Living Structure)¶

Experiment: From Flat Growth to Self-Supporting Shell¶

In an earlier experiment, I explored 2D grassroot patterning, observing how roots spread and weave into living textiles across flat molds. This time, I wanted to move from pattern to structure — to see if roots could become a self-supporting form on their own.

Concept

Roots are nature’s quiet builders — they don’t just grow downward; they sense direction, moisture, and light, organizing themselves into networks of strength.
By using curved or flexible molds, I want to understand how geometry, humidity, and surface texture affect how roots find stability.

Goal Experiment with dynamic molds and natural curvature, letting the roots define their own architecture — like a living shell or dome grown from seed

Main Objectives

Recreate root patterning using 3D or semi-dynamic molds (such as shell or dome shapes).
Observe how roots bind and support themselves without external reinforcement.
Produce one or more self-supporting root structures after drying.

🧰 Tools¶

Small molds or forms (bowl, dome, shell, or folded fabric)
Spray bottle (for watering)
Baking paper or jute cloth (to line the mold)
Measuring cup or bowl
Spoon or spatula
Gloves
Plastic wrap or transparent cover
Scissors or craft knife
Camera / phone for daily documentation

🧂 Materials¶

Material	Purpose	Notes
Grass or wheat seeds	Primary growth medium	Pre-soak overnight for faster germination
Soil, coconut fiber, or jute fabric	Growth substrate	Root anchoring and moisture control
Water (clean)	Moisture	Mist daily, avoid oversaturation
Flour paste or agar	Natural adhesive	Helps seeds stick to vertical or curved mold
Plastic wrap or cloth	Cover	Retains humidity
Paper or jute liner	Separation layer	Prevents sticking to mold
Light source	Growth direction cue	Indirect sunlight or lamp

💫 Step-by-Step Instructions¶

1️⃣ Pre-Soak Seeds¶

Soak grass or wheat seeds overnight (8–12 hours).
Drain and rest for a few hours before layering.

2️⃣ Prepare Mold¶

Choose a 3D form (like a small dome, bowl, or curved paper mold).
Line with baking paper or jute cloth for air and easy removal.
Brush a thin layer of flour paste or agar to help the seeds stick, especially on curved or vertical parts.

💭

3️⃣ Apply Seeds¶

Spread soaked seeds evenly across the mold surface.
Press gently so they adhere without overlapping too densely.
Spray lightly with water.
Cover with a thin layer of jute or soil for extra support (optional).

💭

4️⃣ Incubation & Growth¶

Cover with plastic wrap or breathable cloth to keep humidity.
Place in indirect light, maintaining warmth (20–25 °C).
Mist 1–2 times per day to prevent drying.
Observe root growth and weaving over 5–7 days.

💭

5️⃣ Shape & Strengthen (Dynamic Molding)¶

As roots grow, gently adjust or deform the mold slightly — tilt, bend, or lift corners.
Observe how the structure responds and adapts.
The aim is to encourage self-supporting tension through living geometry.

💭

6️⃣ Drying & Preservation¶

Once roots fully bind and create a stable network, carefully remove the structure from the mold.
Rinse lightly to remove soil or debris.
Dry under gentle airflow or in a dehydrator at 40–50 °C until completely dry.
Optionally, coat with bioplastic or mycelium slurry for hybrid strength.

💭

📊 Observation & Notes¶

Day	Action	Growth Observation	Mold Adjustment	Notes
1	Soaking
3	Germination
5	Root binding
7	Partial drying
10	Dried

🌸 Reflection¶

🖼️ [Insert images — flat pattern from previous experiment → mold preparation → root growth stages → self-supporting shell form → dried results]

🐟 Crafted Material — Fish Leather (Alum vs. Green Tea vs. No-Tannin)¶

Shout-out to XOXO Sushi and Chef Josh for helping me collect the fish skins.
For this experiment, I used the skins of Salmon, Hon Hiramasa (Yellowtail Kingfish), and Kasugodai (Young Sea Bream).

🎯 Goal¶

To explore how different tanning agents — mineral, plant-based, and non-tannin — influence the look, texture, and scent of fish leather.

For this experiment, I prepared three samples: 1. Alum-tanned fish leather — mineral-based and pale.
2. Green-tea-tanned fish leather — plant-based and warm-toned.
3. No-tannin (Salt–Glycerin) fish leather — neutral, translucent, and minimal-chemical.

All three follow the same process so I can directly compare how each responds to its tanning chemistry.

🧰 Tools¶

Bowl or tub (non-metallic)
Gloves
Dull knife or spoon
Soft toothbrush
Towel or cloth
Drying rack or flat board

🧂 Materials & Ingredients¶

Ingredient	Purpose	Notes
Fish skin (Salmon or Hiramasa)	Base material	Fresh, cleaned of meat — avoid oily species
Salt	Cleansing + preservation	Any coarse or table salt
Alum (Potassium aluminum sulfate)	Mineral tanning agent	Found in pharmacy or pickling section
Green tea (loose leaf or tea bags)	Plant tannin	Adds warm tone and herbal scent
Glycerin (or olive oil)	Softening / Non-tannin agent	Key for no-tannin method
Baking soda	Neutralizing acidity	Optional for rinsing
Water	Soaking + rinsing	Room temperature

💫 Step-by-Step Instructions¶

1️⃣ Cleaning the Skins 1. Rinse fish skins under cool water.
2. Use a spoon or dull knife to gently scrape off leftover meat or fat.
3. Remove scales if needed for smoother texture.
4. Soak cleaned skins in saltwater bath (1 part salt : 10 parts water) for 24 h.
💭 This cleans and pre-preserves the skin — it feels firmer afterward.

2️⃣ Split the Experiment — Three Tanning Baths

🧪 Sample A — Alum Tanning (Mineral-Based) Mix: - 1 L warm water
- 100 g salt
- 30 g alum powder
→ Stir until clear, add one pre-salted skin.
Soak 2–3 days, stir daily.

🍵 Sample B — Green Tea Tanning (Plant-Based) Brew 5–6 tea bags (or 15 g loose leaf) in 1 L hot water for 10–15 min.
Add 100 g salt, cool to room temperature.
Add pre-salted skin, soak 3–4 days, stir daily.

💧 Sample C — No-Tannin (Salt–Glycerin Method) Mix: - 1 L warm water
- 100 g salt
- 20 mL glycerin (or 1 tbsp olive oil)
→ Stir to dissolve.
Add pre-salted skin, soak 3 days, stir daily.
💭 No tannins — relies on salt dehydration and oil conditioning for preservation.

3️⃣ Neutralize and Rinse For all samples: - Prepare mild baking-soda water (1 tsp per L).
- Soak 10–15 min, then rinse thoroughly.
- Pat dry with a towel.

4️⃣ Oiling and Softening Lay skins flat on a towel.
Brush a thin layer of glycerin or olive oil on both sides.
Stretch and massage periodically as they dry (1–2 days) to keep flexibility.
💭 The no-tannin skin will stay light and semi-translucent.

5️⃣ Finishing Press under books or boards until flat.
Trim edges and lightly polish with oil or beeswax.
Label clearly:
- Sample A – Alum
- Sample B – Green Tea
- Sample C – No Tannin

✨ Observations¶

Sample	Tanning Type	Color	Texture	Flexibility	Scent
A	Alum
B	Green Tea
C	No Tannin (Salt–Glycerin)

🌸 Reflection¶

💭 Removing tannins felt like removing color, scent, and even “story.”
The no-tannin skin became quiet — pure and raw, almost ghostlike.
It showed me how structure can hold memory without additives,
and how simplicity can be a kind of preservation on its own.

🖼️ Documentation Plan¶

(To be updated after results)
- Process photos: cleaning → tanning baths → drying → final textures
- Comparison grid: Alum vs. Green Tea vs. No Tannin
- Close-ups: translucency, flexibility, and surface sheen differences

☕ Crafted Material — Coffee Ground Bio-Leather & Composite (Alginate vs Gelatin vs Agar)¶

1️⃣ What This Experimentation Is About¶

This experiment compares how three natural biopolymer binders —
sodium alginate, gelatin, and agar agar — behave when mixed with used coffee grounds to form two material types:

Coffee Bio-Leather (8 in hoop) → thin, flexible sheet
Coffee Composite (3 × 2 × 1 in mold) → dense, rigid block

The goal is to observe how binder chemistry changes texture, flexibility, color, smell, and drying using the same filler.

Inspired by the Fabricademy Bio-Leather recipes and Materiom Coffee Composite method.

2️⃣ Design Goals¶

Recycle spent coffee as filler and natural pigment
Compare three binder types (seaweed / animal / plant based)
Create one hoop sheet + one composite block per binder
Keep ingredients precise for minimal waste
Observe surface feel, translucency, and durability

3️⃣ 🧰 Tools¶

(3) 8 inch embroidery hoops
(3) mixing bowls + spatulas
Digital scale (reads to 0.1 g)
Measuring cup / beaker (mL or fl oz)
Silicone mat or parchment sheet
(1) 3 × 2 × 1 inch mold ≈ 98 mL volume
Oven or dehydrator set to 104–122 °F (40–50 °C)
Gloves + alcohol spray
Optional for alginate: 1–2 % Calcium Chloride (CaCl₂) solution

4️⃣ 🧂 Recipes (References)¶

Binder	Fabricademy Base Ratio	Notes
Alginate Bio-Leather	400 mL water : 12 g alginate : 30 g glycerin	Cross-link with 1–2 % CaCl₂ solution
Gelatin Bio-Leather	240 mL water : 48 g gelatin : 12 g glycerin	Elastic and glossy finish
Agar Bio-Leather	250 mL water : 5 g agar : 15 g glycerin	Matte and firmer
Coffee Composite (Materiom)	Alginate + coffee grounds (5–30 %) + glycerin	Cured with CaCl₂ for strength

5️⃣ 📐 Recipe Adjustment for One 8″ Hoop + One 3×2×1″ Mold¶

Volume Estimation | Container | Approx. Volume | |---|---:| | 8 in hoop (≈ 0.12 in thick film) | ≈ 97 mL | | 3×2×1 in mold | ≈ 98 mL | | Total + 10 % extra for loss | ≈ 215 mL |

About “% w/v” % w/v means “grams of solid per 100 mL of liquid solution.”
For example:
- 6 % w/v = 6 g coffee in 100 mL liquid
- 20 % w/v = 20 g coffee in 100 mL liquid

So for our volumes:
- Sheet (97 mL) → ≈ 6 g coffee
- Composite (98 mL) → ≈ 20 g coffee

Scaled Ingredient Amounts (≈ 215 mL total mix per binder)¶

Binder	Water (mL)	Glycerin (g)	Binder (g)	Coffee for Sheet	Coffee for Composite
Alginate	203	15	6	6 g	20 g
Gelatin	207	10	41	6 g	20 g
Agar	205	12	4	6 g	20 g

6️⃣ 🔬 Detailed Instructions¶

A) Alginate Coffee Bio-Leather¶

Slowly whisk 6 g alginate into 203 mL water.
Let rest at least 1 hour (preferably overnight) to fully hydrate and remove bubbles.
Add 15 g glycerin and mix gently.
Stir in 6 g dried coffee grounds.
Pour into the 8 in hoop (~3 mm thick).
Spray or brush with 1–2 % CaCl₂ for 5–10 min to cross-link.
Rinse lightly and drain.
Dry at 40–50 °C until fully set.
Rub surface lightly with olive oil for flexibility.

B) Alginate Coffee Composite¶

To remaining alginate mixture, add 20 g coffee grounds (20 % w/v).
Mix to a thick paste.
Pour or press into the 3×2×1 in mold.
Mist or dip in 1–2 % CaCl₂ to set.
Dry at 40–50 °C until solid.
Oil finish optional.

C) Gelatin Coffee Bio-Leather¶

Sprinkle 41 g gelatin over 207 mL cool water; let bloom 5–10 min.
Warm gently (≤ 140 °F / 60 °C) until clear.
Add 10 g glycerin; stir.
Mix in 6 g coffee grounds.
Pour into 8 in hoop and level.
Let gel at room temp, then dry at 40–50 °C.
Massage a drop of olive oil after drying if edges stiffen.

D) Gelatin Coffee Composite¶

Rewarm remaining gelatin mixture.
Add 20 g coffee grounds; mix until dense.
Pour into the 3×2×1 in mold and tap to release bubbles.
Let set at room temperature, then dry at 40–50 °C.
Peel out carefully once firm.

E) Agar Coffee Bio-Leather¶

Bring 205 mL water to a gentle boil.
Whisk in 4 g agar until dissolved (2–3 min).
Remove from heat; stir in 12 g glycerin.
Add 6 g coffee grounds and mix.
Pour into 8 in hoop quickly — agar sets as it cools.
Let cool to gel, then dry at 40–50 °C.
Oil lightly if stiff.

F) Agar Coffee Composite¶

Keep mix warm so it remains liquid.
Add 20 g coffee grounds, stir to form thick slurry.
Pour into 3×2×1 in mold and tap to de-air.
Let cool to gel, then dry at 40–50 °C until hard.
Oil finish optional.

7️⃣ 📊 Comparison Chart (to fill later)¶

Sample	Binder Type	Coffee %	Form
A	Alginate	6 / 20	Leather / Composite
B	Gelatin	6 / 20	Leather / Composite
C	Agar	6 / 20	Leather / Composite

Documenting and comparing experiments¶

TEST SERIE BIO-PLASTIC¶

Material name	polymer	plastifier	filler	emulsifier
bio-rainbow	biokelp powder 12 gr	glycerol 100 ml	rainbow dust 1 kg	green soap a drop
bio-rainbow	biokelp powder 12 gr	glycerol 100 ml	rainbow dust 1 kg	green soap a drop
bio-rainbow	biokelp powder 12 gr	glycerol 100 ml	rainbow dust 1 kg	green soap a drop
bio-rainbow	biokelp powder 12 gr	glycerol 100 ml	rainbow dust 1 kg	green soap a drop

RESULTS¶

Two ways of showcasing and comparing results with images below

On the left an image of a sample made by xxx with xxx. The dye is more xxx. On the right, an image of a sample made by xxx with xxx and xxx. Here the dye is more xxx.

✅ Summary¶

get inspired!

Check out and research alumni pages to betetr understand how to document and get inspired

Comparison research - Aslı Aydın Aksan - TextileLab Amsterdam
Comparison research - Barbara Rakovska FabLab Bcn
Jute research - Julija Karas - FabLab Bcn
Polarisation in bioplastics Viviane Labelle - EchoFab
Local waste streams - Marieke van Eyndhoven

Add your fav alumni's pages as references

Overview material research outcomes¶

example from the documentation of Loes Bogers TextileLab Amsterdam 2019-20


Biofoam	Gelatin foil	Bioresin	Biosilicone
Starch Rubber	Biolinoleum	Alginate net	Alginate foil
Alginate string	Agar foil	Bio composite	Reused PLA

Recipes¶

recipe: salmon skin fish-leather https://commons.materiom.org/materials-database/recipe/649c36218e0f06dcab0b7d0c ↩