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BioChromes


photo of three girls in lab coats standing around pot, smiling Team photo at BioLab Lisboa, by Asli D

Tools

Important Vocab

Dye: liquid bath, soluble (in water), into the material Pigment: insoluble colour particle, powder form, onto the material Ink: dense liquid, soluble / dispersed, into/onto the material Tanin: a plant-based, bitter, and astringent organic compound used in natural dyeing as a primer or natural mordant to help dye molecules bind to plant-based (cellulose) fibers like cotton, linen, and hemp Mordant: a chemical substance used to help bind natural dyes to textile fibers

This week we learnt the processes of dying using three different natural materials and a mixture of both animal and vegetable fibres. We used:

Vegetable Fibres: linen thread, cotton yarn, recycled cotton thread, non-organic cotton thread, organic cotton thread, hemp thread, 100% cotton fabric, 100% raw cotton fabric, 100% linen fabric, hemp thread.

Protein Fibres: 100% pure silk fabric, Natural wool thread, 100% wool thread, 100% virgin wool thread.

photo of three girls in lab coats standing around pot, smiling

photo of three girls in lab coats standing around pot, smiling


STEP 1: FIBRE PREPARATION

We began by preparing the fibres for the dying process. We must first turn our fibres into ‘skeins’ to stop them mixing in the scouring/dying process. Here is a video of the creation process and finished product:

Skein technique

Completed wool skein

Fibre volume correlates to weight, and you must make ⅗/8 loops of fibre depending on weight to have roughly equal fibre volumes.

TOTAL WEIGHTS:

Vegetable fibres: 287.9gr
Protein fibres: WoF 96.57gr

We used this to calculate the amount of mordant needed for our experiments. We did not use tannins this week. Process by Carolina documented below. We used alum at 10% and creme tartar at 5%.

screenshot of powerpoint describing how to prepare fibres for natural dying

Preparing the fibres

Leaving fibres to dry overnight

STEP 2: PREPARING DYE MATERIALS

We left the fibres overnight and in the morning we begun the dye process. We chose turmeric, hibiscus and red cabbage for a varied source material and varied result / process.

Weights of material used:

Cabbage: 480g Turmeric: 50g Hibiscus: 45.5g

Processes followed were: screenshot of powerpoint describing how to prepare fibres for natural dying screenshot of powerpoint describing how to prepare fibres for natural dying screenshot of powerpoint describing how to prepare fibres for natural dying

This let us with:

Preparing the cabbage

After boiling process, unfiltered

Preparing the hibiscus

After boiling process, unfiltered

STEP 3: FILTRATION

We began filtering the dyes by straining and removing the material.

Video of material straining

After this, we filtered slowly through a coffee filter. The process for Tumeric was a little different as there was a lot of sediment left in this dye. Creating a paste helped the powder dissolve well, but there was still build up, and we needed to filter slowly / use multiple coffee filters for this process because of the weight. We were also informed that the material of the coffee filter can effect the dyes as it may contain chemicals. We used a strainer for extra support, but in hindsight the strainer would have been more useful beneath the coffee filter.

screenshot of powerpoint describing how to prepare fibres for natural dying

After the dyes were successfully filtered, we added a selection of fibres to samples of each, letting them soak for roughly 24 hours.



STEP 4: MODIFICATIONS

We measure the PH of the dyes to help us identify different colourways and correlations, as well as monitor the changes in our experimental process.

Here are the initial PHs of our filtered, natural dyes:

screenshot of powerpoint describing how to prepare fibres for natural dying

We made some modifications to our red cabbage dye using acid and alkaline to see its effects on our colours. We sectioned off 4 x 50ml into a petri dish and used citric acid, alum and soda ash to modify. Results are documented below:

scanned sample sheet of red cabbage dyes with acid and alkaline modifications

As mentioned above, we also made some self experiments mixing numerous dyes together. Although not as chemically accurate, they created interesting shades, samples of which can be found below:

scanned sample sheet of my natural dying experiments on multiple fibres

I also used some experimental techniques to create this examples, leaving the wool skein half in the sample and half out, to allow a gradient of absorbtion. I also used a similar absorbtion technique for the top left sample, and created the affect on the top right by dipping one side, drying and then submerging the rest in another dye. All these experimental samples were merely dipped, but Carlotta let some fibres soak for around 18-20hrs in different modified dyes. Examples of which can be found below:

scanned sample sheet of my natural dying experiments on multiple fibres ...


5. Creating a Lake Pigment

We created three lake pigments, one from the unmodified cabbage dye (PH6) and twp from the modified (PH2/PH5) dye.

PROCESS: from Carlotta Premazzi

Dissolve: Mix the alum into half a cup of hot water until dissolved. Do the same with the soda ash in a separate cup. Alum to Soda Ash Ratio: 2:1. 1% w/v means 1 gram of powder in 100 ml of liquid.

Mix: Pour the dissolved alum into your dye bath and stir well.

Precipitate: Slowly pour the dissolved soda ash into the dye bath. It will fizz up.

Filter: Let the mixture sit for a few hours until the powder settles at the bottom. Pour off the clear water from the top, then dump the remaining colorful sludge into a coffee filter.

Dry & Grind: Leave the paste to dry completely. Once it forms a hard crust, grind it into a fine powder (always wear a face mask!)

lake pigments in filtering process

Colour from Lake Pigment on the filters

Lake Pigment documented by Carlotta

Our PH2 pigment remained pretty much liquid overnight, probably because it was hard to make the quantities exact at such small amounts. If necessary, pigment can be placed into I observed that the modified dye kept its original colour, whereas the unmodified was completely transformed.


6. RESULTS:

How to rinse

When removing fibres, you must wash them gently with lukewarm/cold water to remove any excess dye. Make sure the water does not hit the fibres directly as this can cause patchiness, but rinse in a bowl with gentle squeezing once or twice before drying.

UNMODIFIED DYE SWATCHES: FRESH

scanned sample sheet of my natural dying experiments on multiple fibres

scanned sample sheet of my natural dying experiments on multiple fibres

scanned sample sheet of my natural dying experiments on multiple fibres


UNMODIFIED DYE SWATCHES: 3HRS DRY

scanned sample sheet of my natural dying experiments on multiple fibres

scanned sample sheet of my natural dying experiments on multiple fibres

scanned sample sheet of my natural dying experiments on multiple fibres



UNMODIFIED DYE SWATCHES: 3 DAYS LATER

scanned sample sheet of my natural dying experiments on multiple fibres

scanned sample sheet of my natural dying experiments on multiple fibres

scanned sample sheet of my natural dying experiments on multiple fibres



7. Recipe files & References