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Process

Flowchart


This flowchart illustrates the full process of creating sustainable, culturally expressive wig “crowns” using natural materials and textile techniques. It begins with the preparation of fibers, specifically mordanted cotton and wool yarns, which are treated to ensure they can properly absorb and retain natural dyes. The process then moves into the natural dye preparation stage, where plant-based materials such as turmeric, black beans, madder root, onion skins, and black walnut are used to create a range of rich, earthy colors. Once the dyes are prepared, the yarn is immersed, allowing the color to develop before being dried and set.

Following dyeing, the process transitions into wig construction techniques, where the yarn is transformed into textured “hair.” This includes methods such as braiding with beads to incorporate cultural aesthetics, wrapping yarn around wooden rods to create curls, and using pin curl techniques for tighter, more defined patterns. These techniques allow the material to take on dimensional, sculptural qualities that mimic and celebrate Afro-textured hair. In the final stage, all of these elements are brought together to create finished wigs, or “crowns,” that embody identity, creativity, and sustainability. The result is a collection of vibrant, naturally dyed hairstyles that center Black women, highlighting beauty, cultural pride, and innovative design practices.

Prototype

Prototype Development: Yarn Hair + Structural Testing

These prototypes explore how naturally dyed yarn can function as hair when combined with a laser-cut structural base, with the goal of testing both material behavior and attachment methods before developing the final wig (crown). The process began with yarn formation experiments, where yarn was tightly wrapped around rods and set over time or heat to create coils and curls, mimicking Afro-textured hair and producing vibrant tones such as turmeric yellow. The next phase focused on attachment and placement, using a laser-cut grid as a scaffold where yarn was inserted, tied, or looped to simulate natural hair growth patterns while testing density, direction, and flow. As the yarn was applied to a cardboard silhouette, the curls lifted off the surface, creating dimension and allowing for layering and expansion. These experiments demonstrated how the design could successfully transition from a flat, laser-cut structure into a three-dimensional, wearable crown. This confirms that the design can transition from flat (laser cut) to 3D (wearable form).


Mentoring notes

Although I did not receive formal written notes from my midterm evaluation possibly due to presenting at the end of the final session, the feedback I received during the review was impactful. My mentor, Becky, encouraged me to shift my focus away from the garment aspects of the project and instead concentrate more deeply on the hair itself as the central material and concept. She emphasized the importance of exploring the chemistry and material relationships within the work. This insight prompted me to rethink my approach and begin investigating yarn as an alternative to traditional hair materials. I started comparing fibers such as cotton and wool with 100% human hair, considering their structural, aesthetic, and chemical properties. This reflection has pushed my project toward a more material driven exploration, aligning more closely with sustainability and innovation in textile based hair design.

However, during the final evaluation, my notes are as followed...

Darlene M Eberhardt-Burke dyeing hair - Color Botanical Crown Collection

  • CECILIA Well done Darlene! You really made it happen and its fun, its real and meaningful! I loved the video, the happiness and fun you all had together is so powerful and contagious! and the outcomes are a great alternative to current options. well done!
  • CLAUDIA Very powerful, very inclusive and personal project. Great improvements since last time I loved how you managed to craft the project starting from your early natural dying experiments and great to see that now everything together makes sense. Sense of identity, care and community. People reconnecting with themselves and express something personal, their personalities. Well done! This could also turn into a business, while keeping it open to empower people also building upon it.
  • NURIA Darlene, I’m really proud of your work and very happy to have accompanied you on this journey. Your project has evolved beautifully in recent weeks, resulting in a vibrant and playful collection of naturally dyed wigs. Well well done ! <3
  • CAROLINA Darlene, this really is a hairy surprising project. Congratulations!
  • STEPHANIE Love the looks and the video! Very empowering!
  • DIANE Darlene your project and presentation are so full of joy! The visuals and styles are amazing, and the amount of work that went into these crowns makes my head spin!
  • Marissa Darlene, this is the kind of pride in existing authentically I always seek. The second I heard that beat drop in your film, I made the same face I make when I see freestyle dancers hit their beats at a cypher. I really loved this, how unique and fun it is. Thank you for sharing, we need more of this.
  • DIANA Sooo fun!! I wished we had widely availble wigs made out of sustainable materials!