BioChromes¶

1. Lecture¶

Natural dyes have existed since time immemorial and have played an important role in our history in terms of how colors are represented in different cultures and in the history of textiles. Today, natural dyes have seen a resurgence of interest in the textile industry and among the general public. Because they are more environmentally friendly and non toxic, as we have become more aware of how our individual and collective actions affect the planet—natural dyes have emerged as a new way to rethink dyeing and production methods.

There is a wide variety of biochromes, including: animal, bacterial, botanical, composite, fungal, mineral.

2. References, research & inspiration¶

Click on each one

Celilia Raspanti

2. Inspiration¶

Celilia Raspanti Biochromes

• Here is a diagram by Cecilia Raspanti that visually explains the systematic “zero-waste” approach to natural color production.

3. Tools¶

Materials¶

Reagents¶

4. Process and workflow¶

4. 1 Mordant¶

4. 2 Bouganvillea¶

4. 2 Spinach¶

-

MODIFIERS

↓

↓

Divide the infusion into two samples

ORIGINAL COLOR

Keep the infusion unchanged.

↓
DYEING

Soak fabric for 1 hour.

MODIFIED COLOR

Add 3 drops of HCl.
The infusion turns purple.

↓
DYEING

Soak fabric for 1 hour.

4. 2 Beetroot¶

MODIFIERS

↓

4. 3 Turmeric¶

Antotypia¶

Antotypia was developed in the 19^th century by Sir John Frederick William Herschel, a British mathematician and astronomer.

Antotypya involves using plant pigments and other natural materials to create a photosensitive emulsion(Tipia Lab, 2024). Here’s an explanation of the basic process:

Turmeric antotypia¶

Spinach antotypia¶

4. 3 Turmeric antotypia¶

5. Results¶

Table for comparison¶

5.1 Results Antotypia¶

Due to the bad weather, there wasn't enough sunlight, so the color of the fiber seems to have changed slightly. This may also be because I used 70% alcohol when I should have used 90%.

5.6 Results pigments¶

Most of the extracts turned white when mixed with calcium carbonate and then filtered. You can leave the extract with calcium carbonate for longer before filtering it to get a little more color, but even so, they turn very white.

The spinach infusion turned out green because I filtered it without calcium carbonate; then, I mixed what remained on the filter paper with a little water and calcium carbonate according to the formula, and that’s what gave it that color.

6. Weekly reflection & critical thinking¶

I learned a new dyeing process based on natural plants; I learned about the color extraction process, pH changes caused by different modifiers, and the creation of pigments. During this journey, I recognized the importance of mordants in the process and their effect on the fibers after dyeing. What surprised me most was that sometimes you don’t need to leave home to create your own dye; I wanted to experiment with materials that anyone could have access to. I was also surprised by the significant effect of modifiers, which alter the substance’s pH, resulting in a dramatic color change from the original and a variety of astonishing colors.

During my process, I didn’t clean the plant-based or protein-based fibers, though the results weren’t bad. I’d like to know if this would affect the color. Also, most of my pigments turned out white; I’d try others like arabic gum or guar gum to see the result on a watercolor painting.

This has helped me discover a new way to create color, colors that people can relate to, new colors through processes that are more sustainable and accessible. This has been very helpful in continuing my research and asking myself what other plants, barks, or even organic “waste” can be reintroduced into the life cycle, giving them new value through dyeing. Dyeing is just the first step toward offering different sustainable production alternatives.

7. Recipe files & References¶