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3. Circular Open Source Fashion

Inspiration

During the first day, we discussed about the difficulties to made sustainable clothes. Indeed the development of a new way of consumption, more respectful of the environment need to find a balance between politic, economy, ecology and culture. It’s really important to communicate to raise awareness people concerning the emergency of a new way of production and consumption. It is a big process, all have to be reorganize, from manufacture to sale and it will take time. Of course, feeling very concerned about the nature, I would like to participate to a better way of consumption, more respectful of the nature all around us.

That why I started by search picture of nature or designers who was working on it. In this moodboard, I put an exemple of Iris Van Harpen. This allows me to organize my ideas and find an aesthetic which I would like to get close.

Pattern Research

The first step consisted to do some research about the various possibilities to create modular, elements, structures and connections that allow the uses to change the shape of a garment, resize it or replace certains elements. To understand the mechanisms I started by doing some tests with paper trying to reproduce photos of other realisation. Then I found a system I liked which I changed forms and create one in accordance with my theme. Inspired by nature, I was searching random shape, I searched also reliefs, with 2 different fabrics to play with colors and material. After some tests, I decided to create one notch for passing four pieces of a much more fluid fabric to form a kind of flower. Next I had the idea to do a gradient and add some nuance on my pattern by playing with 2 different colors and material of the fabrics.

First Test

First paper test
Last paper test

From paper to Inskape

The second step was to reproduce the pattern on Inkscape. For the rigid fabric, I made 7 pieces with the same height but with random shape, and I put a notch in the middle. I duplicated it and reduce it gradually so as to have all pieces I needed for my garment. For the fluid fabric, I just made 1 and duplicated it in order to have enough pieces.

Laser cutting

It’s time to cut now, but firstly, I did some test on the fabric to adjust the power and the speed of the laser cutting. Then I did a little test on a square to check all the setting. I began to cut in my rigid fabric, unfortunately my impatience got the better of me, I cut the wrong pieces in the fabric…too bad… take a deep breath, and start again…

I did a final test with real pieces this time, to be sure of my hook system and not release fabric… This time everything is good, the adjustment of the cut is good, the pieces fit properly, I can do it without fear.

Setting:

Fluid Polyester: - power = 95 - speed : 70

Gold leatherette:

  • power = 80
  • speed = 15

Garment assembling

Once all my pieces are ready, I just have to assemble everything. I arm of patience and I realize the assembly of the torso, two straps, and finish with a sleeve. I am rather satisfied with the result, even if I find that I haven’t chosen the most suitable fabrics for this garment. Indeed I think it could be better with leather instead of cork, as well as tulle for fluid material, or any fluid fabric that would be reversible because the flowers reveal the back of the fabric which impact the visual aspect. Furthermore, I noticed as the assembly progressed that I also liked the reverse side a lot, even if it would have been much better if I had a reversible fabric.

Envers

Envers

Back of the fabric

Endroit

Right side of the fabric

If I had to do it again, I would probably opt for different shapes and not random rectangles like here, and I would change the shape of the flowers, perhaps testing more rounded shapes, more or less large and with another material.

Laser cut file

Laser cut file


Last update: 2023-01-05