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9. Textile Scaffold

I am (finally) understanding the structure of this course...

  • Digital Bodies & Computational Couture > Utilize virutal body and clothing simulation to reduce waste
  • Circular Fashion > Modularity to reduce material usage and waste
  • Bio-chromes > Make our own eco-friendly colors
  • Bio-materials > Make our own eco-friendly materials
  • E-textiles > Utilizing textiles in building electronic circuits
  • Wearables > Adding electronic intelligence to clothing

Textiles and clothing that don't last forever, bio-degrades easily...easily replicable

Assignment

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Produce 2 Textile Scaffold - Fabric Concrete Casting - Crystallization

Research

From the week's lecture...2 things really peaked my interest...

Fabric Formwork
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...and Crystallization
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...and I aimed to learn techniques.

Assignment

Fabric Form > The Concrete Boot

From the lecture, I learned that Fabric Formwork can be built...a wooden frame with fabric stretched over it that will sag when some casting material (concrete,etc) is poured on top of it...and a criss-cross of low stretch rope across the frame to some parts of the fabric from sagging, forming creases in the final hardened object created.

And I intended to build such a frame and cast concrete on it. But then I saw my old broken rain boot...

The rubber outer shell had become brittle and breaking off. It however has a fabric inner lining that I thought would make a great 'Fabric Scaffold'. I mixed up some concrete and poured it into the boot.

I used a ready-to-use cement mix that only required water to be added.

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I added water slowly, mixing into the cement powder until a slurry texture was achieved. Then I poured the mixture into the boot and left it to cure for the 10 days I was away in Amsterdam.

Alt text ...water leaking out through the fabric
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Slicing open the formwork...
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The Fabric Formwork after being sliced open...
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The sole of the boot was firmly stuck to the concrete boot and I decided that rather than work hard to remove it...the Concrete Boot looked better with a 'Soul'.
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Result Below are the results after many days of curing (about 10 days while I traveled to Fabacademy's Instructor's Bootcamp).

The Concrete Boot after fully drying in the sun for a few days...
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Growing Crystals

I watched the following videos to learn how to grow crystals...

Growing Alum Crystals

Growing Alum Crystals by Sci Guys

How to Grow Crystals at Home

I used Allum as my salt...mixing it into hot water to dissolve it and make a hyper-saturated solution. I strained the melted liquid through a coffee filter into a glass and waited for crystals to form. No luck. I left for my Amsterdam trip.

Upon returning...I was surprise to find that salt crystals had grown in the saucepan where I as making the hyper-saturated solution. I guess the remaining liquid in the pan was the correct saturation...and crystals formed naturally and easily. Lucky me.

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I think to make the crystal 'seeds' grow bigger...i need to make more hyper-saturated salt solution and suspend the seed crystal into it.

I tried to grow some crystals on colorful pipe cleaners...but did not meet with great success. Not sure what went wrong...I hope to try again some day.

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Additional References:

Class Notes

Lecturer: Anastasia Pistofidou

Many techniques...choose one
- Composites
- Leather Molding
- Fabric Formwork
- Crystallization
- Wood & Textiles
- Digital & Biological Fabrication
- CNC Milling

  • Beyond On Body Applications

The many Domains of Fashion
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  • Oekotech = Environmental protection, recycling, waste disposal

Composites

Composite = a material produced fomr two or more constituent materials...with dissimilar chemical or physical properties...that take on different properties when merged (yet remains distinctly separate). Allows for both Compression and Tension properties in the combined material.

...plus aesthetic objective.

Adobe = bio-composite (will bio-degrade over time) composed of a Bio-polymer Matrix (Binder) such as mud & clay...and Reinforcing Phase material such as straw

Natural Fibers

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Find fibers that are easy sourced locally.

Note: Bamboo Fiber??

Polymer Matrix
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  • PLA...bio-based. Bio-degradable?
  • PCL...bio-degradable, low melting point (60C)
  • Pine Resin...low melting point (60c)
  • Gelatine/Starch Bioplastic
  • Mycelium...1-3 months to grow

Composite Examples

  • Paper by Angela Barbour
  • Cellulose + Coffee Husk by Dihue Miguens > Packaging Alt text
  • Textile & White Glue

Note: Shoe sole using CARDBOARD and some binder?? Note: COFFEE GROUNDS to make shoe sole??
Note: Felt hat??

  • Hemp + Acrylic Resin Furniture by Werner Aisslinger & BASF
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  • Note: the beautiful shape of this item depends on the mold...so molded head piece or sholder piece or gauntlet??*

  • Leather Leftoever Composite > Structural Skin by Jorge Penades...resin + leather scraps
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Note: Leather + Concrete?? Hard object with soft surface?

  • Linen + Resin Composite > Gabriella Veszpremi
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Molding Techniques
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  • Make a material block that can be CNC milled

  • Dominique Vial > Twist Again...denim & alginate composite

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Leather Molding

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- Leather Hardening = Leather + Hot Water

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  1. Thermal Boil to 180F
  2. Chemical Brine...Sodium Chloride (3%-26%) + Water. Seawater is around 3% salt.
  3. Mechanical Hammering/Pressing
  4. Stabilization Beeswax

  5. Pro Tip: Use wood mold to absorb humidity from the leather
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Molding Mycelium

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works by Ecovative, Officina Corpuscoli

  • Growing mycelium in a mold...to create a 'solid' structure

Note: Must take a week or two?

Fabric Formwork

  • Making fabric structural...wet and freeze fabric
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Note: Inflating Fabric?

  • Fabric Formwork for concerete...stitching pattern creates different effects
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  • Caternary Formwork...concrete liquid in hanging sack form
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Crystallization

Alt text Crystal = A solid materials that grows, in an ordered repeating pattern, extending in 3 dimensions

  • Grow crystals on fabric
  • Not waterproof
  • Very stiff...not flexible
  • Salt crystals

Crystal Making Process
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Alum Crystals on LEDs
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Wood Textile

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Lasercut wood tiles and gluing them down individual to fabric

Note: Filipino Barong > Pineapple Fiber

Digital & Biological Fabrication

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Textile that is grown from seed.

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Fabric structures that are grown/built by animals > Silk Worm


Last update: 2023-05-15